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Food News & Commentary

Alternate to Las Manitas for Breakfast Tacos: Dona Emilia’s

Where to get downtown breakfast tacos after the closing of Las Manitas? Dona Emilia’s just down the street on Cesar Chavez (across from the Four Seasons), just two blocks away, is open each morning serving up Austin’s favorite breakfast treat. You might not run into Gus Garcia just yet, but that’s actually OK. The tacos are the thing at Dona Emilia’s!

09/04/2008

"Kids Eat Free" Promotion at ZuZu

ZuZu is offering "Kids Eat Free" Monday through Wednesday nights after 5:30 pm. Two kid items free with the purchase of an adult platter. In house only, no take out and not valid with any other offers.

Click here to see the Menu for ZuZu .

08/12/2008

Rob Meets with Rusty Coco, co-founder of Jason's Deli Chain!

The first things that struck me about Rusty Coco were his genuineness and his east Texas charm. It's not often that I come away from a meeting with the head of a large hospitality chain wanting to go have dinner with the guy. But Rusty is not your average button-downed executive type. He's interested in people and cares passionately about Jason's customer base. He's a fitness enthusiast who works out two hours each day. Yet he loves good red wine. He also loves "Curb your Enthusiasm" on HBO. My kind of guy.

He hails from Beaumont where the first Jason's Deli was launched in 1976. The reason that it became a deli at all was because the owners of the strip mall were from New York. They said they would lease the space to the budding entrepreneurs but only if operated as a deli. Thus, Jason's debuted with all the requisite Deli chow: Reuben's, Liverworst, et al. A local Beaumont DJ who was on a diet suggested that put in a salad bar. And so they did!

Funny how some things begin! Jason's Deli now consists of almost 200 stores across the country with an emphasis on Texas, and the Southeast. More stores are targeted for the upper Midwest and the Northeast.

Rusty has championed the menu development of the chain since the first store and continues to be involved on a daily basis. He shocked the fast-casual industry four years ago by completely pulling trans fats [partially hydrogenated vegetable oils] off the Jason's menu. He now has high-fructose corn syrup in his sights.

Rusty also acknowledges that some of the sandwiches and especially the Potatoes at Jason's can be highly caloric. And so he's worked on introducing lower calories sandwiches and salads. But there are devotees of the restaurant who must have their Muffalettas [the classic New Orleans sandwich] and their potato concoctions. So as Rusty knows, trimming calories is a work in progress, especially in Texas.

I brought my daughter Lauren [marketing grad from St. Edwards and current Apple marketer] along to the meeting. Rusty asked her how long she's been coming to the Bee Caves location of Jason's.

"Since I've been alive," said Lauren without a moment's hesitation. Well, perhaps a bit of an overstatement given that the store opened 15 years ago and Lauren is 23. Bu the perception was there. Jason's likes to start its customer base young. And the Balons made many a trip there when our kids were growing up, playing sports, etc.

Nonetheless, Rusty loved it. He then left to have dinner with his son: all prepared from scratch after an excursion to Central Market.

"I get to watch him cook" and I sit and drink some red wine and admire the process," said Rusty. Well, if you're going to be a success in the restaurant business, you have to love food. No?

As I said, I would definitely like to go to dinner with this guy.

07/30/2008

New Executive Chef Jeffrey Cummins Debuts at Finn and Porter

Jeffrey Cummins is the new executive chef at downtown favorite Finn and Porter at the Hilton. His credits include a seven-year stint as chef du cuisine at the Grand Californian Hotel in Disneyland. He trained at the prestigious California Culinary Arts Academy.

What I like about Cummins philosophy is that he lets the food speak for itself: he’s not into masking flavors but rather helping diners to experience the full range of taste possibilities in each dish.

07/25/2008

Café Panini Is Worth A Visit on N. Mays in Round Rock

Had the good fortune last week to have lunch at a seriously good little eaterie in Round Rock on N. Mays called Café Panini. Owned by a husband and wife who are entrepreneurs and helmed by a CIA trained chef, these are Paninis to get excited about. I tried a Turkey Club Panini that was just about perfect and the other ones looked great as well.

And they make these homemade scones that are to die for. I usually can take or leave scones but these have incredible texture (not the usual dry, crunchy things one finds at most bakeries) and a serious flavor.

1105 S. Mays Street. (866) 866-4976.

07/21/2008

Breaking News: What Happened to and What May Be in Store for the former Cibo’s: El Chilito?

As noted in these pages last month, Cibo which had to close its doors in the spring, was supposed to have been bailed out by an investor from New York who was apparently going to open a restaurant called Luciles. That deal crashed and burned at the 11th hour.

Now, news has it that the team from the successful El Chile operation on Manor has purchased the restaurant at 10th and Congress. Doesn’t take too much of a stretch of the imagination to suggest that the theme of the new restaurant will be Mexican. Perhaps another El Chilito?

07/17/2008

Are you ready for Shochu?

First it was Cachaca, the Brazilian liquor made from the distillation of fermented sugarcane juice,that began to attract attention internationally. Perhaps because it has a alcohol strength of between 38%-48% and is the basis for the famous Caipirinha, the national drink of Brazil.

Now, keeping with the current culinary craze for all things Asian, comes Shochu. This is a trendy new Japanese liquor that’s catching on in the big culinary centers of the US. Available at most Twin Liquors.

07/17/2008

9 Reasons to Patronize Austin Java

I tend to get annoyed when area restaurants are attacked for no apparent or viable reason. Such has been the case over the past few weeks as Austin Java has been the subject of boycott threats allegedly made by a certain blues singer. All this because the owner of Austin Java and his partners followed a business plan that had already been approved by the city council, the zoning commission, and the Zilker neighborhood association with regard to the removal of certain tress to make way for a new condo development behind Austin Java on Barton Springs.

That being said, here are my Top Nine reasons to patronize Austin Java on Barton Springs Road and for that matter, all the other Austin Java’s in the River City.

1. Their coffee is fresh roasted and damned good. Have a biscotti to go along with it.
2. They are geek friendly. Lap tops rule. The staff is friendly.
Occasionally quirky, but friendly.
3. You can bring your pet as well. And they have hibiscus tea.
4. Their breakfast tacos are terrific. My favorite is the eggs, turkey sausage and cheese white whole wheat tortillas.
5. You can eat breakfast any darned time you want.
The Blueberry pancakes are to die for.
6. The Cajun Blackened Crawfish Pasta dish is one of my favorites in the city.
7. They have free parking and will shuttle you to and from it.
8. The Smoked Gouda and Bacon Cheeseburger is very good.
9. Because singers should sing. If they don’t want to eat a restaurant because of a personal grudge, fine. But recognize that when they say this onstage to their fans, it can easily be interpreted as a mandate

07/11/2008

Join the Senior Citizen Social Circle at the Veranda

The Veranda Restaurant & Bar presents the Senior Citizen Social Circle. Membership is complimentary and entitles you to a 20% discount off any entree (not including lunch specials), a 30% discount off of Saturday and Sunday brunch, and complimentary dessert on your birthday.

The eligibility requirements are:
1. You must be an Austin resident

2. You must be 60+ years of age
3. You must be a registered member
4. Your membership Card must be presented to receive discounts.

07/10/2008

The Bakehouse Hosts Open Mic Competition for Singer-Songwriters

Each Monday the Bakehouse, one of our favorite “iconic” restaurants at 5404 Manchaca near Stassney is sponsoring the “South Austin Singer-Songwriter Contest”. This is an open contest for which rewards each of the top three finalists with prizes including a PAID gig for the overall winner.

The contest is hosted by award-winning songwriter Steve Power (I’ve heard the guy’s CD: he’s really good).

Sign up is at 7pm with performances beginning at 7:30pm and ending at 10pm.

The contest winner is determined by voting from the audience. So it would not be a totally bad idea for each artist to bring some family and friends to join in the fun.

Click here for more details.

07/02/2008

Singer Marcia Ball Allegedly Urges Boycott of Austin Java

Singer Marcia Ball is apparently upset with the owners of the Barton Place Project over the removal of a number of trees; so much that she allegedly announced a boycott of the Austin Java restaurant on Barton Springs Road during her Blues on the Green concert last week.

One of the owners of the Barton Place project is Rick Engel, who also happens to be one of the owners of Austin Java.

According to Engel, who phoned in while I was hosting the Jeff Ward on KLBJ-am show last Friday, Ball called for a boycott of Austin Java while she was on stage at the concert on Wednesday, June 25th.

This appears to be a disagreement between Engel and Ball: why the singer should ask all those at the concert to boycott Austin Java is a mystery to me. There are dozens of employees who derive their livelihood from that restaurant.

Engel and his partners are adamant that no additional trees have been removed other than the ones agreed on. There were several that were lost in that freakish storm we had toward the end of May. But that, as they contend, was that.

One would hope that Ms. Ball would address her grievances to the appropriate parties and let Austin Java continue unencumbered. The restaurant business is tough enough as it is these days.

07/02/2008

Imperia Celebrates New Sushi Bar by offering 2-1 each night till 7pm!

The newly opened Sushi Bar at Imperia is going to offer 2-1 sushi each night during happy hour. Chef Tatsu is rocking and “rolling” and his sushi needs to be celebrated.

Now that’s value!

07/02/2008

Imperia to add Full-Service Sushi Bar

Imperia, one of my favorite modern-Asian restaurants and the newest member of our Top 20, will add Sushi to its already innovative and delectable menu offerings.

Chef Tatsu Aikawa joins Executive Chef Joe Tellus to make a powerful combination in downtown dining. Chef Tatsu, born in Tokyo, has years of experience including stints in Tokyo at “Kikuzushi” and most importantly, five years working with the master “Smokey” at Musashino Dokoro below Chinatown on Mopac. (Musashino is one of my top two favorites for Sushi in central Texas.)

Chef Tatsu has a rare opportunity: starting a Sushi bar at Imperia is the culinary equivalent of being given an unfinished painting by Jackson Pollack and being asked to complete it. The stakes are high but the opportunity is extraordinary!

And as Tyson Cole of Uchi discovered, Takehiko-san Fuse (Smokey) of Musashino is one hell of a tutor. I look for big things from Chef Tatsu!

06/27/2008

More Woes for Cibo: Sale Falls Through at 11th Hour

Cibo, absolutely one of my all-time favorite Austin restaurants, closed several months ago. The Italian-styled restaurant at 10th and Congress helmed by Will Packwood just never got any traction.

The owners had planned to sell the business but the buyer backed out literally at the 11th hour last week. Packwood is one of our most talented, albeit least understood chefs, and I’m afraid we’re going to lose him to a larger city. Too damned bad.

06/18/2008

Green Mesquite Gets Unwanted Drive Through Addition at 4am Monday

In one of the more bizarre events in the food world this month, a truck barreled into the side of BBQ favorite The Green Mesquite at Barton Springs and S. Lamar at about 4am Monday morning. The driver, interestingly, apparently had fallen asleep at the wheel and didn’t wake up even after he crashed through the wall.

To make things more curious, a piece from the dislodged wall flew across the restaurant and hit one of the beer taps, causing the beer to begin to flow.

Owner Tom Davis, who knows how to roll with the punches, had a temporary wall up by Monday and the restaurant is open for business. According to Davis, the driver, who claimed he was going through a divorce, was apparently NOT cited by police for reckless driving nor was he given an alcohol or drug test.

Don’t you just love Austin?

06/10/2008

Kinko’s Classic Comes to Lakeway: Where Hungry Golf Fans can Dine

I don’t know about you, but watching golf makes me hungry. Playing golf makes me even hungrier but that’s another story. This week the Kinko’s Classic is being played in Lakeway. The pros on the Champion’s Tour will all be there: Crenshaw, Kite, Watson, Loren Roberts, Jay Haas and all your favorites.

So where to eat after the round? My first choice would be Ciola’s smack dab in the middle of Lakeway on Higyhway 620. This is southern Italian food at its best. You’ll love their Linguine with Clams, the Penne with Vodka Sauce, the Clams Ciola, the Bruschetta, the Sausage and Peppers, the Oso Busco, and more. Plus they have an outstanding wine list.

Another good bet is Pao’s at the corner of Highway 620 and Lohman’s Spur. This is Chinese cuisine that will satisfy the western and the eastern palate. There’s two separate menus and they both rock. The Scallion Cakes are to die for and the Shrimp lettuce wraps are the bomb. I love the Tofu with Shredded Pork and the Sea Bass is incomparable.

And fans of Thai cuisine will love Thai Spice across the center from Ciola’s. Vicky Vicha presides over a very tasty and spicy menu. The Royal Dumplings are sinful. And the Charcoal Pork will make you a believer. The Pad Kee Mao is exceptional.

Want a burger or a pizza? Then head over to Kahuna’s Ice House farther down 620. The burgers are juicy and irresistible and the fries have real taste and staying power. The pizza is also pretty darned good. And do try the Fish tacos as well.

So enjoy the tournament and enjoy the food out at Lakeway. Fore!!!!!

04/29/2008

Athenian Grille Finally Receives Funding

Got a call from councilwoman Jennifer Kim's office this morning informing me that Anil Simicia, owner of the Athenian Grille, has finally gotten the funding approved for the build out of the new Athenian Grille, which will be located on W. 6th St., across from Ruth's Chris.

This is by no means a Perez sisters deal. All of the money is to be repaid. The small business office of the city did help: and that 's what they should do for small business.

No word on when the new AG will open but we'll keep you posted!

04/28/2008

Local chefs come up huge at Stars Across Texas at the THCWFF

Well, another Texas Hill Country Wine and Food Festival has gone into the books. And I think most would agree that it was a fun weekend.

I started things off with the “Hot Blooded Latins” seminar at Fogo de Chao featuring the wines of Chile and Argentina. John Bonadies was a knowledgeable and affable host and we should acknowledge the serious amount of time and energy put in by the Austin Chronicle’s Claudia Alarcon.

The follow-up lunch at Dona Emilia’s featured food from Dona Emilia’s, Sampaio, and from the kitchen of Aaron Sanchez, proprietor of two New York Latin hot spots, Centrico and Paladar. His ceviche was a smash!

Friday night found us sipping and noshing at the Stars Across Texas Chef’s competition at the ballroom of the downtown Austin Hilton. One thing was immediately apparent. The Austin chefs were not only in fine form but were well-represented.

Elmar Prambs from the new Trio at the Four Seasons, as usual, knocked us out with a lovely Niman Ranch Flat Iron Steak with corn brulee with beet salad along with an apple bacon biscuit.

Jeff Blank from Hudson’s on the Bend never fails to surprise at these events. His plump strawberry wrapped in venison with goat cheese and honey was another smash hit.

The Navajo Grill from Fredricksburg rolled into town with a nopalito biscuit with a sweet potato and goat cheese puree along with some crispy prosciutto and a ancho honey drizzle. Chef Josh Raymer was presiding.

The chefs at Finn and Porter from the host Austin Hilton were not to be outdone with a seaed pork belly, braised romaine, peppercorn aoli and roasted heirloom tomatoes.

Harvey Harris, Exec Chef at the always popular Siena prepared a rabbit and wild boar tureen with black truffles and a sweet green fig conserva on homemade crostini. Amazing!

Tyson Cole, Chef at the uber-cool Uchi on S. Lamar has been in the local headlines as of late for his epic battle against Chef Morimoto on the Food Newtork’s Iron Chef. Although Cole lost that one, he was a winner Friday night with a seared fois-gras nigiri sushi. You want to talk about a one-bite taste explosion!

Massively tasty!

The chefs from the new Italian restaurant at the Domain, NoRTH, looking a bit like magic men Penn and Teller, produced a magically tasty short rib. I had to go back for seconds on this one.

Jeffrey’s, as usual, was very much in evidence with a cool and lovely yellow tomato and habanero gazpacho with a bit of shrimp and avocado crème fresh. Chef Alma Alcocer-Thomas who helmed the seamless transition from David Garrido a few years ago continues to deliver daily excellence from this most revered of bistro restauants.

04/15/2008

The Gonzo Gourmet Club dines at Sicola’s: A Culinary Experience

Our Gonzo Gourmet Club has got to be one of the coolest dining clubs in Austin. We meet about 6-7 times a year and have epic feasts with wine pairings at wonderful restaurants. Our most recent splurge was Saturday, March 29th, at Sicola’s: A Culinary Experience.

Chef Steven Sicola showcased his inestimable skills with lobster cakes with remoulade, a stunning Portabello and Brie soup, an entrée choice of a light and flaky Sea Bass, a killer Braised Lamb Shank, and a delightful Ribeye. Dessert was a wickedly tasty chocolate raspberry torte. Each course was paired with wines.

For more information on setting up a corporate event or private party at Sicola’s call 323-6907 and ask for Melanie. Their web is www.sicolas.com. To join our Gonzo Gourmet Club, click here.

04/01/2008

Tyson Cole of Uchi Brings the Battle into Kitchen Stadium on the Iron Chef

It isn’t often that a local Austin chef gets to journey to New York to do battle with the big boys on the Food Network’s Iron Chef program.. The last one to do it was the former chef at the Driskill Grill, David Bull. And he lost to Bobby Flay.

Tyson Cole, the uber chef of Uchi on S. Lamar was the next Austin chef to get the call. Last September, he went to New York with his team of Paul Qui and Phillip Speer to take on the almost mythic chef Masaharu Morimoto. The featured ingredient was ginger. Cole was under a strict gag order to not reveal the outcome until the show aired.

On Sunday evening, March 23rd, a packed house of media and Tyson’s best friends and customers watched at Uchi as the event finally aired on the Food Network. We got to sample the same menu Tyson prepared in his battle with Morimoto. And it was fabulous food. From the Japanese black snapper sashimi to the Skewered and grilled salmon belly with ginger compressed watermelon; to the Pan-seared black bass with gingered lemon puree and the Ginger-cured smoked baby yellow tail (hamachi) served with ginger dusted yucca chips (my favorite) and finally to the Brown butter sorbet with ginger consommé it was enough, in my opinion to send Morimoto crumbling into the dust.


Iron Chef airs
to a packed house at Uchi
Alas, the judges, an odd lot if there was ever one assembled, did not agree. Morimoto got the victory but Tyson acquitted himself very well. Had the Food Network actually invited a few additional judges whose culinary chopsticks had a few more notches in them, it might have been different. But the evening was a gas.

The good news is that this exact same menu will be available to the public for the next four Sunday’s for $65 per person with wine and sake pairings available for an additional $31.

Call 916-4808 for reservations.

03/27/2008

Rob Opens Mouth, Inserts Foot: Both County Lines are very much open and doing great!

Radio is a live medium. That’s what makes it special and that’s what also makes it occasionally problematic. This morning, I inadvertently confused the County Line with the Salt Lick as we talked about the Salt Lick’s closing in Davenport. I corrected myself moments later but some folks apparently left the program thinking the County Line had closed.

I love what the County Line offers up, as do thousands of others in central Texas. AND as Hans and Franz of SNL fame used to say, “Listen to me now and hear me later!!!” Both County Lines are very much open. And as evidenced by my last meal at the County Line on the Hill, the food is still great. The view ain’t bad either!

02/29/2008

Austin Dining Recommendations for Hillary and Barack

Okay, the big night is at hand. Hillary Clinton and Barack Obama are going to square off in an Austin debate with the future of the Democratic presidential nomination at stake. Duly noted.

But the really burning question is where in our fair city are they going to dine? Or perhaps to couch it in culinary logic, where should they dine based on their political ideologies?

Obama is the candidate, so he says, who will unite all the disparate groups out there in fractious old USA. He will fuse, if you will, all the dissenters into one united front. So what better place for him to dine then Austin’s preeminent fusion restaurant, Bistro 88 on Bee Caves Road. Chef Jeff Liu has fused European and Asian flavors with great success. So this would seem to be a natural. Another good choice would be Saba Blue Water Café on 4th St. Lots of fusion going on there as well. And then, for breakfast, because he is sometimes accused of being long on sophistry and short on substance, he should head over to Cisco’s for breakfast and sit at the fabled Liar’s table.
Clinton is the candidate, so she says, who will get things done because she knows how to work the system to get what she wants. She’s also trying to distance herself from husband Bill. So the first thing she needs to do is head over to Guero’s on S. Congress and emphatically announce that she will not be ordering the Presidential plate named after her husband. Then she should head over to either Eddie V’s or The Shoreline Grill. These are two restaurants where serious corporate and political players hang out and in fact, get things done. In fact, George W and his brother Jeb were at Shoreline on election eve in 2,000 (remember that night where Al Gore won and then didn’t win?). Rumor has it that after the TV announced that Gore had won Florida, the two men were seen huddled outside in a hallway for quite some time.

02/21/2008

Trouble in Coffeeland? Starbucks to Close 100 Stores

The notion of value in the hospitality industry is an intriguing one. Some people will pay what they believe a product is worth and nothing more. Others though, will pay far more. Why? Because they want to be socially accepted or feel like they’re part of the cognoscenti.

Consider the case of a cup of coffee at Starbucks. I paid $2.00 for a medium cup of coffee the other day. I believe they call it a “grande”. Was that cup worth two bucks? Absolutely not. So why did I fork over the money? Good question. I actually began to ponder that issue as I sipped the lukewarm Colombian dark.

Apparently, a few million other customers have begun to rethink the value of a Starbuck’s cup of java as well. Because sales at the nation’s leading coffee shop chain have begun to slide.

Now let me clarify: I do like Starbuck’s coffee. And I get a kind of God-bless-American-business feeling when I walk into one of their stores and see people hard at work on their laptops or conducting sales meetings or job interviews over a cop of jo. But I suspect the bloom may be beginning to come off the rose. Starbuck’s began a national mania for exotic coffee blends and mysterious drinks with names like “Mocachocalatte” And for a time, people were willing to pay a premium for the cachet that Starbuck’s offered.

But what goes up must come down. And Starbuck’s corporate has closed 100 stores and has begun experiments with value pricing. At some spots in the country, one can now get a cup of coffee for, drum roll please, a buck! They’ve named this “the short cup”. And it’s a stab at competing with bottom feeders McDonald’s and Dunkin’ Donuts. Well sign me up for a short cup. It’s probably not even worth a dollar but it’s a step in the right direction.

Now, the burning question is: if you only order a “short cup” the next time you go to Starbuck’s, will they still give you free wireless?

02/06/2008

Rob and Art San Miguel enjoy an Imperial of Caymus Special Selection ’04

I get to go to a lot of wine auctions and affairs for charity. But earlier this year, I was fortunate enough to be the MC for the Parents to Parents wine benefit at the Wild Game Ranch south of Austin.

If you are not familiar with this charity, the work that goes into it is extraordinary. It was created by Texas parents of children with disabilities, chronic illness, and other special needs. The idea is to help families in need by providing information and resources, a one-on-one matched with a trained volunteer, a bit of encouragement, or help figuring out the next step in your journey of raising a child with a disability or a special need.

The event was very successful and we’ll keep you posted on when the next one will be. Some great wines were auctioned off and Art San MIguel and I were lucky enough to walk off with an Imperial (equivalent to four magnums) of Caymus Special Selction ‘04 Cabernet. The picture shown above is as we had decanted this excellent wine and, with friends, consumed the majority of it.

For information on Parents to Parents, their website is www.txp2p.org.

02/05/2008

What Will $4,937 Buy You and Your Valentine for Extravagant Indulgence at the Hilton

Got some discretionary cash lying around from the sale of your hedge fund? Or perhaps you just did a re-fi on your Lake Travis estate? Or maybe you just have a penchant for extravagance?

Well, the downtown Hilton has got a package for you. The weekend begins with a limo escorting you to the hotel. In your Presidential Suite, a dozen red roses will await along with a ’99 Dom Perignon and an original chocolate sculpture from award-winning pastry Chef Edward Schulz.

Then it’s off to the Spa for a couples’ massage along with a choice of facials, body wraps and other indulgences.

The evening features a gourmet dinner at the Hilton’s stunning Finn and Porter restaurant that will begin with Bluefin Tuna sashimi [I think I’d go just for the Bluefin] and include a host of Chris Bauer creations along with a 2004 Georges de la Tour Private Reserve Cabernet.

An indulgent brunch served in your suite follows the next morning that will feature French pressed coffee flavored with Louis XIII cognac.

An important out of town engagement has kept Rob from signing up for the package so it is still available. Call the Hilton at 482-8000 to reserve. Sorry, you may not trade in your Hilton Honors points for this one!

01/25/2008

Rob will host a booth at KLBJ-AM’s Talk Fest this Saturday at Convention Center

Looking for some one-on-one Q&A time with Rob? He will have a booth at 590 KLBJ-AM’s Talk Fest this Saturday, January 26th, at the Convention Center. The hours are 9am to 4pm. Admission is free!

Talk Fest is a popular yearly event that brings talk radio fans from across central Texas to meet and listen to KLBJ-AM’s local and national personalities.

01/23/2008

Craving Great Soups This Weekend?

The weather has taken a turn for the nasty here in sunny Austin. So what better time to hunker down over a hot and delicious bowl of soup? Some of our favorites are listed below.

The Sweet Potato Clam Chowder at Austin Land and Cattle. I know the name sounds a bit strange but I love this soup. It has perfect taste and it really stays with you.

The Shrimp Pho at Hao Hao on William Cannon at Manchaca. This is Vietnamese penicillin: a beef broth with plump shrimp, rice noodles, bean sprouts, jalapenos and more flavor than you can imagine. Perfect for a cold day.

The Seafood and Corn Chowder at McCormick and Schmick’s is also a great cold-weather treat. This is a robust soup but it has wonderfully nuanced flavors.

And please get the Taiwanese Hot and Sour Seafood Soup at Chinatown on Greystone. This is usually served for two but it’s so good that I’ve on occasion downed the bowl designed for two or three by myself. This is Ronald Cheng at his best.

The French Onion soup at both Aquarelle and The Belmont. This is exactly what French Onion soup should be: wonderfully cheesy gruyere and sharply flavored with that comforting taste. And who knows, at Belmont you might see someone really cool sitting across from you.

Another favorite is the Aztec Corn and Shrimp Bisque at Chez Zee. The shrimp are served in a rich, tomato chicken broth and the corn is whole kernel. Yum.

And you have to try the Tortilla Soup at Zax Pints and Plates. Tortilla Soup is a classic cold weather dish and Zax just nails it.

Another good choice is the Chicken Caldo at Curra's Grill. The broth is loaded with tender chicken, squash, corn, and a boatload of the flavor that has made Curras’ such a foodie favorite over the years.

On the Italian side, get whatever soup La Traviata happens to be serving that day. It’s literally that good. My favorites are the Cauliflower, Mushroom and Butternut Squash. And also head over to Bellagio and try the Pasta Fagiolo (or pasta fah-zool as my Italian aunt used to call it). This is a hearty serving of pasta, fresh vegetables and kidney beans in a savory broth.

Another great choice is the Mediterranean Seafood Soup at Louie’s 106. Chef Frank Bellino, taking the reins from Norbert Brand, has nailed this soup.

And as always, on a cold day, you have a bowl of Gumbo. Try the version at Cherry Creek Catfish which has a milder roux than most but lots of flavor. Another recommendation is the Gumbo at Evangeline Café. This is hotter and has more bite but it’s equally flavorful.

01/18/2008

Craving a Steak this Weekend?

Austin is blessed with an abundance of fine steakhouses. Most are centered in or near the downtown area but there are also pleasant exceptions north such as Cool River on Parmer Lane off Mopac. I love the Ribeyes there along with the Seafood Empanadas. Great bar scene as well. Austin Land and Cattle on N. Lamar (not to be confused with Texas Land and Cattle) is the only one of my group of favorites that is owner-operated. Their Porterhouse is to die for and they make a sweet potato clam chowder that is unique in the city.

Austin Land & Cattle
(Porterhouse)

Another favorite is III Forks at Cesar Chavez and Lavaca. Curtiss Osmond is the consummate host and Jamie Gutierrez has the kitchen going strong. The Bone-In Ribeye is amazing. Love the sophisticated-yet-approachable ambiance as well. On 2nd St. next to Roy’s, Fleming’s is a long-time favorite. The Prime NY Strip is a killer as is their Sunday Prime Rib dinners. I am also addicted to their BBQ Shrimp. And one can’t ignore the near-legendary Sullivan’s on Colorado and 4th. This place has a rocking lounge and a Filet Mignon that will make you a believer. They are also open for lunch where a very credible burger is served. There are many more but this will get your started. It’s almost impossible to have a bad meal at any of these.

01/11/2008

Update on the Latest Attempt by the EU to Ban Foie Gras

I never thought I’d live to see this day. The European Union, with England in the lead, has been rumbling about a total ban of foie gras production. Can this be? I’m not sure what it would take to get this passed but I certainly can’t see the French of the Belgians supporting it.

In rural southwest France, over 30,000 workers make their living from the production of foie gras. Despite all the hue and cry, when the French and Belgian farmers bring their fresh foie gras to market on Sundays, their supplies, even at a price of over 50 Euros per kilo, are quickly exhausted. Seems the locals just can’t get enough of one of the last great delicacies on Earth. I don’t know how the EU will come down on this, but I must say I’m stunned that they are even considering it.

Here in America, things continue to be simply stupid. Chicago, at least for now, has banned the sales of foie gras at any restaurant. California, even worse, is considering a ban on production at the farms. And in Austin, restaurants like Jezebel and Jeffrey’s have been vandalized because they continue to have it on the menu. You know what? Good for them. If the foie gras activists abhor the sale of this product, then they have the right to boycott those offending restaurants. But they do not have the right to vandalize these places of threaten the families of the owners (that’s right, you heard me correctly).

This protest has gotten insane. We (humans) are at the top of the food chain. It may not always be the case. So let’s enjoy our status while we still have it. I am not going to get excited over a duck or goose that may be overfed to enlarge the size of its liver when that same duck or goose, were that not the case, would still destined for the slaughterhouse to serve as someone’s Christmas dinner. The Egyptians were doing it 3,000 years ago. Emperor Nero fed figs to his geese to produce foie gras. I’ve been to the Hudson Valley farm and watched the feeding of the duck and geese. I did not see anything inhumane about it. When the tubes (full of rich cornmeal) came out, the animals came running. No amount of force was necessary. On top of that, ducks and geese have very coarse throats. A tube does not bother them in the least as it might you or I. Sorry, that’s just the way I see it.

12/21/2007

Dona Emilia’s Now Open for Breakfast

Dona Emilia’s, one of our TOP 20 restaurants, has opened for breakfast at 7am Tuesdays thru Saturdays.

Dona Emilia’s will feature gourmet breakfast tacos, huevos rancheros, and other breakfast fare. Guests can dine in at the restaurant or phone in a to-go order.

Since the restaurant is only a few blocks from my office, you can rest assured I’ll be there. I am a serious fan of breakfast tacos. Call 478-2520.

12/17/2007

Cibo’s Servers Donate Tips to Help Needy Families

I like this story. Next Thursday, Dec. 20th, Cibo, (at 9th and Congress) one of my favorite restaurants in the city, will donate 10% of the evening’s sales to help several needy Austin families. But beyond that, the servers have decided to donate all their tips for the night to those same families. You don’t see the servers giving up ALL their tips too often. So hats off to the waitrons at Cibo.

Go dine there on Thursday, have some amazing gnocchi, and tip generously. It’ll be a great evening of dining, and it will make some deserving families very happy. Call 478-3663 for reservations.

12/14/2007

Chinatown Greystone Begins Dim Sum Service on Dec. 8-9

It’s taken 25 years but Ronald Cheng has finally come to terms with Dim Sum and has begun service on weekends from 11-3pm starting Dec. 8th.

Ronald Cheng only does things one way: with ultimate quality. That’s why Chinatown has had a spot in our Top 20 since we began posting it six years ago!

Click here to see their Dim Sum Menu.

12/07/2007

Chefs Brady and Loiacono team at Ventana

I like the idea of a functioning restaurant as a learning center for culinary students: you know a place where they can put their classroom instructions to the acid test. Ventana, the commercial restaurant of the Texas Culinary Academy is such a place.

And the TCA just scored a major coup by securing the services of two of our most outstanding central Texas chefs: Robert Brady of Aquarelle and Steve Loiacono, formerly of Bellagio.

We attended a student-prepared dinner there the other night where the food was paired with wines from the Frank Family Vineyards. The Foie Gras au Torchon was magnificent: deep, rich flavors with perfect texture. And every dish after that was equally good. The dinner was a complete success and the students deserved the recognition they got from a room full of critical foodies.

If you've not yet tried Ventana, you owe it to yourself and your palate to get out to 11400 Burnet Road behind the Domain and see what chefs Brady and Loiacono have taught their young protégées. Phone: 339-3850

11/29/2007

Craving German food? Scholz Garten is Alive and Well!

Scholz Garten, aside from being one of the oldest restaurants in the city, is a fun place to snarf down some vienerschnitzel or bratwurst. They also have many, many beers to choose from and provide an excellent venue for watching games on TV. Click here for menu.

10/27/2007

For Fans of Kaprow: Fatty Tuna in for two weeks only!

Chef Opart at Ka Prow on Howard Lane has written to inform me he has fatty tuna in for only a limited time: until the end of October. The price is $5 per piece for either sushi or sashimi. For more information go to www.kaprowleaf.com.

Get there in a hurry because I suspect there’s going to be a line!

10/26/2007

Watch Hut’s Recent Appearance on Emeril Legasse’s Good Morning America Segment

The colorful Legasse recently gave some well-deserved love to Hut’s, the legendary 6th St. burger emporium. You can watch it here in the all-too-brief segment. But hey, national TV? Emeril Legasse? Way to go Hutch and the gang!

10/12/2007

You Want Some Real Comfort this Weekend: Check Out Angel’s Chicken Fried Meatloaf

Chicken Fried Meatloaf? Why the hell not, I say. And Mary and Sara at Angel’s Ice House in Spicewood agree. This weekend the special is Chicken Fried Meatloaf. It’s served with brown gravy, corn, mashed potatoes and Texas toast.

What’s not to like about that? Call 264-3377 for more information. Angel’s is at 21815 W. Spicewood, just across from the Backstage Steakhouse.

10/12/2007

Cannoli Joe’s Now Open For Sunday Brunch

If you’re looking for an unusual and tasty Sunday brunch, Cannoli Joe’s in S. Austin is serving up a bevy of Italian treats along with more traditional brunch fare such as:

Baked Fontina and Egg Strata
Poached Eggs Fiorientina
Custom-Made Omelets
Belgian Waffles
French Toast
Blueberry and Raspberry Scones
Cherry Strudel
Bacon, Sausage and Ham
Crispy Potatoes Rustico

Cannoli Joe's: (512) 892-4444. 4715 Hwy. 290 West. Click here for their menu.

09/21/2007

Craving Thai? Check Out Rob's Favorites

When I first tried Thai food, I was living in Southern California and teaching at Cal St. Long Beach. My restauarant reviewing days were far ahe