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The drive out along Highway 71 to Spicewood has taken on considerably
more interest to me lately. I used to only have Poodie's Hilltop to
look forward to. But that's changed. And that's because I've discovered
a fine restaurant called The Backstage Steakhouse.
The owners are former caterers who worked the music
concert circuit from Willie Nelson to Frank Sinatra for years; hence,
the name Backstage. It's a tough business, with a very demanding clientele.
And that experience has served them well at the customer-pleasing Backstage.
First, they had the good sense to hire legendary Austin chef Raymond
Tatum who logged in 12 years at Jeffrey's. They added former Thai Soon
owner and chef Jim Regan. And they lured quality wait people away from
other restaurants.
And voila, you have a destination that will bring people not just from
the Spicewood area, but from all over Austin.
I am enamored of the Crab Cakes with jicama slaw
and BBQ butter sauce. The seasoned breading is just right, and the cakes
are texturally dense without being overly thick of chewy. Love 'em.
Also I really like the Jalapeno Corn Cakes. They're served with gorgonzola
mustard, crawfish and red chile sauce. The flavors are immensely satisfying
and the blend of the disparate elements mentioned above works perfectly.
The crispy oysters with the Chinois dipping sauce are also a treat:
great texture and immediately satisfying and mellow taste.
I also recommend their lovely Spinach Salad. It
is adorned with poached pears, walnut crusted goat cheese [an excellent
choice] and a piquant raspberry port vinaigrette. I would literally
go to the Backstage just for that salad.
For the entrees, the fish, pastas and steaks are
my favorites. The Pan Seared Drum is just amazing. A yellow tomato jalapeno
lime cream sauce [Raymond originally had Siracha but he didn't like
the taste] just sets it all up. The fish is tender and the flavors are
beautiful. It's served with an astonishing Shrimp enchilada made with
shallots sautéed in butter along with Hitachi mushrooms and ancho
and chipotle powders. Add a little bit of coreadner and roast garlic
pepper and salt. Wilt some spinach, dice the shrimp, and you have magic.
The steaks are mountains of marbled bliss. Try the
20 oz. Bone-in Cowboy Ribeye. This is a total carnivore's delight. Get
it medium rare and indulge yourself. Somewhat pricey at $32.95 but worth
it. And the pasta: The Penne Pasta with pesto cream and a salsa cruda
is an absolute delight. Take a good look at the lovely contours of this
dish. For $10.95 a dish for the ages.
The Backstage is on Highway 71 about 7 miles past
the intersection of 620 and 71. Hope to see you there this weekend.
Tell 'em Rob Balon sent you.
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