Hey there, restaurant fans. It's not often that one restaurant packs up and leaves a popular location, and is replaced by an equally popular spot. Well, lightning has struck twice for Curras grill, which moved into the structure vacated by the popular Guero's on East Oltorf near South Congress.

Curras is a kind of down-home spot that embraces the cuisines of the interior of Mexico. And it's not Fonda San Miguel Junior, either. It's got a style all its own. And why not? The owner's mother, the indomitable Julieta, is holding forth in the kitchen. Tell you what: I wish she would invite you and me over for Sunday dinner. This woman can flat-out cook!

Start with the Curras "papas," which is a knockoff of a popular Mexican dish.

To make the gringos happy, they use French fries, but who cares? The taters have chorizo, onions, chipotle and Monterrey jack cheese over them, and the taste is excellent. Or how about the Escabeche? That's pickled carrot,  cauliflower, and jalapeno. Sounds strange doesn't it? But it rocks!

For entrees, try the Conchinita Pibil, a traditional Yucatan dish, which is a tender pork leg cooked to perfection in a banana leaf. Tender is more than the operative word here, it's the only word. Delicious. And for $8.95 it's a steal. You'd pay 17 bucks for the same dish at Fonda. Or how about the Camarones Chihuahua? Big, beautiful shrimp, sauteed with bell and guajillo peppers, goat cheese, oregano, and tomatoes. Mama cita, donde esta su casa?

Curras is changing its menu up a bit. For one thing, the ubiquitous, tequila-producing agave leaf, is in short supply., For another, a little change is good.

But for my money, the Julieta's Famous Mole Enchiladas should never change, and I have it on authority that they won't.

Desayuno is wonderful at Curras as well. Try the Chorizo Machacado Tacos or the migas. Heck, I was there at 10 a.m. the other day and the breakfast crowd was still going strong. Of course, this is Austin, but nonetheless, that's impressive.

Curras is a 614 E. Oltorf. It’s open from 7 a.m.-10 p.m. daily. I'll tell you, if there's anything not to like about this place, I haven't found it yet.