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(March 13, 2009)

One of the maxims of the restaurant business is the old but very timely expression: "he who does it first does it best." This week's review, Estancia Churrascaria on Highway 290 S. in Sunset Valley not only did it first, but in my humble opinion they still do an excellent job". Estancia opened almost two years ago as Austin's first Churrascaria, or Brazilian house of meat. They introduced the concept of "espeto corrido" or continuous dining.

The Estancia Salad Bar: A Meal in Itself

Estancia Churrascaria is a lovely restaurant full of warmth and charm. The guacho waiters are affable and sincere and the place oozes hospitality. The first step is a visit to their gigantic salad bar. And what a salad bar this is. I am partial to the lovely roasted red peppers, the crisp asparagus stalks, the marinated artichoke hearts, the luscious red tomatoes, the balls of mozzarella cheese, the tabouli salad, the wonderful white onions, the engaging potato salad and various mixed greens. This salad bar could easily satisfy a table of vegetarians: but as I have learned, there is so much more.

And carnivore that I am, I settle in to await the gauchos with their skewers of meat. You put out the green flag (which essentially means "keep it coming") and you are transported to a world of savory, rich flavors featuring meats roasted with sea salt. The gaucho approaches your table with a skewer and you pick up your tongs and take the meat that he slices from you and put it on your plate. On our last visit we began with a wonderful cut of bottom sirloin. Wow was that tasty. Then came perfectly done pork ribs, chicken wrapped in bacon, and a classic filet mignon. Another Balon family favorite, the Cordiera or young leg of lamb was next. I dabbed mine in a bit of chimichurri sauce and the flavor was unrelenting. Then came my favorite cut of the night, the Pichana. This is also known as the rump cover or part of the top sirloin. This cut is most prized in Brazil. And it is done to perfection Estancia. I order mine medium rare so as to insure maximum taste. And as always, it is perfect. I've heard the occasional comment that it can be a bit too salty, but that's never been a problem for me.

Another vice at Estancia are these amazing Brazilian cheese rolls. They are almost lighter than air texture and have an addictive taste as well. But beware, you can down a half dozen of these before you even know what hit you. And the crispy polenta is also a perfect accompaniment to the roasted meats.

At some point, regrettably, you have to turn over your green card and stop the process. And then still there are interesting desserts like the papaya and ice cream mixture. I can't get away from this one. Well, quite frankly, there are lots of things I can't get away from at Estancia. Plenty of parking, convenient hours, and for what you get, very fair prices. For Fox 7 news, I'm Rob Balon saying "obrigado" for watching and bon appetit!

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