(July 9, 2010) When I first happened by Perla's on South Congress, I thought it was another Mexican restaurant until I realized that perlas in Spanish means oysters. I then noted that curmudgeonly old John Mariani of Esquire had named Perla's one of the best new restaurants in the U.S. Mariani and I do not always agree but after my first visit I knew he was on to something.

Perla's

Chef Larry McGuire had struck gold with Lambert's BBQ a few years back and after a few meals at Perla's, I can enthusiastically state that he's done it again. Perla's simply reverberates with good tastes: it is a locally-owned seafood joint worth reckoning with.

I first tasted the New Orleans BBQ Shrimp with grilled ciabatta bread, Aside from the godfather of all BBQ Shrimp places: Pascale's Manale in New Orleans, I liked Perla's version almost as much, and that's saying something.

The roux was robust and aromatic and that's where it all begins with this classic dish. The Salt and Pepper Calamari exceeded all the requisites for this dish. The squid was tender and the diversity of flavors was exceptional. I could have easily downed another order. Likewise for the Soft Shell Crab BLT. I grew up in soft shell crab country and Perla's serves up the real deal. The lightly breaded crabs were perfectly cooked, and when that happens, as crab lovers know, there is a veritable first bite explosion of flavors and juices. The lemon mayo was beautiful and I loved the idea of adding bacon and lettuce.

If you're going to have a New England styled seafood restaurant, a Lobster Roll is mandatory. And does Perla's deliver. This is a Maine dish and the best I've ever had was at a lobster pound in Lincolnville. But Perla's was right there. A good lobster roll is about as close to culinary bliss as we mortals ever get. Also try the Crispy Gulf Snapper with a lively lemon spinach and a spicy sofrito which is a mix of onions, garlic, peppers, tomatoes and cilantro, On the flavor front, snap is the appropriate word because it jumps out with all burners on the first bite. Yum.

The Sea Scallops a la Plancha were another delight. The name comes from the metal plate on which the scallops are grilled. This is a lovely dish that gets more interesting and tastier with each bite.

And being a native New Englander I am drawn to the tender Grilled Swordfish like a moth to the flame. One thing for sure is that Larry McGuire knows how to coax the maximum flavors out of the simplest preparations and the Swordfish is a great example.

Of course Oysters abound at a place named for them. A bit pricey, but the Raspberry Points from Prince Edward Island and the East Beach Blondes from my old stomping grounds in Rhode Island are to die for and worth it.

No wonder Tony Bourdain got so excited about this place. It is the epitome of quality and consistency and those win every time.

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