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Rob on Cuisine

Recommendations: Some of Rob's Favorite Dishes
Recommendations: Last Minute Thanksgiving Suggestions
Recommendations for the Weekend: Mexican (as opposed to Tex Mex)
Recommendations for the Weekend: Places to take the kids
Recommendations for the weekend: Let's do Asian
Recommendations for the Weekend: Road Trip!
Recommendations for the Weekend: Let’s Do Brunch!
Rob's Recommendations for the Weekend: Head to the Burbs!
BBQ Recommendations for the Weekend
Dinner at Trio at the 4 Seasons
Rob's Favorites from the Wine Spectator Grand Tour 2008
Dining, Wining and Relaxing at Las Colinas in Acapulco
Pizza Wars III
By Popular Demand: Rob’s Family Recipe for Stuffed Mushrooms
Sunday Brunch: Rob's Recommendations
Lajitas: Gourmet Dining in the Middle of Nowhere
For Your Holiday Reading: A Week in the Life of a Food Critic
Rob's Healthy Dining Recommendations: Goodbye Guilt!
The verdict on tipping at fast casual places is in: feedback from our readers
Breakfast Recommendations
A New Dilemma: Tipping At Fast Casual Restaurants
City Sees a Surge in Private Dining Options
Five Cool Memorial Day Weekend Restaurants
The Wine Spectator's Grand Tour Event
Rob's Guide to Owner-Operated Late Night Dining in Austin
The 2004 Food year in Review
Sub Wars: Redux
Many new restaurants having difficult time in Central Texas
Good Chinese restaurants that DON'T Have Buffets
Paradigm Shift? Alamo Drafthouse Blends Food and Film
In Praise of Blue Fin Tuna
Everything You Always Wanted to Know about Eating Sushi
The Food Year in Review: 2003

Recommendations: Some of Rob's favorite dishes

The Paella at Segovia restaurant out at the Y at Oak Hill. This is moist, with that classic paella flavor featuring clams, scallops, lovely shrimp and sausage. This is one of the best paellas around.

The Lobster Tacos at Iron Cactus. I am one who usually wants my lobster with drawn butter period! But when I tasted the lobster tacos at the Iron Cactus at the Hill Country Galleria, I was knocked out. The flavor is amazing.

The Shrimp Mojo de Ajo at Verdes on Hamilton Pool Road. If you like shrimp, and you want something that will quite literally melt in your mouth, the Mojo de Ajo at Verdes will make you a believer.

The Carnitas at Los Pinos on Hudson Bend Rd. Lost Pinos is this little gem of a restaurant that serves the most interesting and tasty carnitas I’ve ever tried. Chef Margarito Maldanado is at the helm here and he is good!!!!!

The Dragon Rib at Imperia on Colorado at 4th. Wow! Chef Joe Tellus has coaxed more flavor out of a short rib than may be humanly possible. I can’t stay away from it. Add the lobster mashers and you are in culinary bliss.

The Eva Longoria Pasta at the Latin Café on Cesar Chavez. Formerely Dona Emilia’s, the Latin Café sizzles with interesting new flavors. This is a seasoned shredded beef with a criollo sauce, caramelized onions and bowtie pasta. No wonder Eva gained so much weight on Desperate Housewives!

The Sagra Pizza at Sagra Trattoria on 1610 San Antonio. This is a great pie that blends tomato sauce, eggs, pecorino cheese, spinach, mozzarella cheese and just a skosh of truffle oil. This take me back to Wooster St. in New Haven.

The Escargot at Louie’s 106 on 106 E. 6th St. If you love the aromas and delicate tastes of well-made escargot, then look no father than Louie’s 106. They’ve made our top 20 for a reason. The escargot are sautéed in garlic and white wine and served with herb walnut butter And then dipping with sourdough bread is just over the top.

The Whole Maine Lobster at McCormick and Schmick’s (downtown at 4th and Congress and at the Domain). This is one place where size does NOT matter. Want a 5 pounder? Just call ahead a few days and it can be done. The bigger the lobster, the sweeter the meat.

The House Bacon Panini at Taste Select Wines on Cesar Chavez is Bill McGory IV at his best! Add the roasted tomato aioli and the arugula with fontina cheese. Oh my! Pair it with a nice glass of Pinot Noir and all is well!


Recommendations: Last Minute Thanksgiving Suggestions

There are always people who are frustrated by an inability to find a good place to dine on Thanksgiving. Let me give you suggestions for some places that are still available and where the food is also very good.

Corazon at Castle Hill. They have just reopened and are getting back on the radar. The menu looks awesome and they have openings! GO THERE

The Veranda at Northcross Mall each Thanksgiving Sam Kattan manages to pull off something more spectacular than the last year. People are stlll buzzing about the ’07 Thanksgiving. He’s at Northcross Mall at the former Hooter’s location. And lost some visibility because of all the construction. But don’t let that deter you. He has availability.

The Latin Café. Formerly Dona Emilia’s, the Latin Café has lower price points and broader culinary target, embracing the whole of Latin America. Wonderful food and they’re going to be doing a deep-fried turkey along with all the other goodies. They will have availability.

The European Bistro in Pflugervlle has fantastic Thanksgiving dinners. And there’s usually availability. Anni and Peroska have one of the finest, yet unfortunately most undiscovered, fine restaurants in the area. Ask for Anni when you go and tell her I said hello.

The Bakehouse is one of the best value restaurants around for Thanksgiving. They’ve catered many of our infamous Christmas parties and always to rave reviews. Carl does a great dinner for only $12.95 for adults.

Judge’s Hill Restaurant is high-end dining at its best. Impeccable food from the folks who brought you a Sterling Affair.

Pricey but worth every penny.

McCormick and Schmick’s at the Domain is doing the more traditional Thanksgiving dinner than their downtown sister restaurant. Turkey et al for only $19.95. Now that’s not bad.

Estancia Churracaria. What a great place to go for Thanksgiving dinner! The salad bar is huge and very tastefully done and the strolling gauchos with their skewers of meat roasted in sea salt are about as good as it gets. The cheese rolls are worth the price of admission, which by the way, is quite reasonable considering the “espeto comido” style of dining.


Recommendations for the Weekend: Mexican (as opposed to Tex Mex)

Austin has a wonderful selection of Tex Mex joints which we’ve written about on many occasions. Interior and coastal Mexican cuisine need a little love as well, and what better weekend than to tell you some of my favorites.

Verdes is a hot, new Mexican grill on Hamilton Pool Road off Highway 71. Joel Mungia has crafted a very tasty yet not overwhelmingly spicy menu. The Chili Relleno with a poblano cream sauce is to die for. The shrimp wrapped in bacon are also scrumptious. And do try the Shrimp Fajitas.

Azul Tequila on Ben White next to Target has been a long-time favorite. Their Cochinita Pibil is as good as you can find in central Texas. Also love the Chile Relleno with an almond cream sauce.

Los Pinos is on Hudson Bend Road just past the dam off Highway 6720. Chef Margarito Maldanado prepped at Mirabelle for 8 years and he is at the height of this talent. The Carnitas are amazing! They also do beautiful breakfast tacos each weekday morning.

Iron Cactus has long been a favorite for their mesquite grilled dishes. The Carne Asada con Adobo is amazing! And they’ve added a new dish: Lobster Tacos. Now I’ve always thought that the only way to eat lobster was steamed and dipped in drawn butter. Guess what? I’ve found a new way. Iron Cactus has also opened a new location at the Hill Country Galleria across from the Town Hall.

Fonda San Miguel is the dean of all Mexican restaurants in Austin. Tom Gilliland and Miguel Ravago have created something with staying power. The Sunday brunch is one of the best in the city. The Camarones (shrimp) in Chipotle is a perennial favorite as is the Chuleta de Cerdo (pork chop). And do try the Sopecitos de la Casa.

Manuel's is another long-time favorite. The first time I had their Queso I was blown away. They use Monterrey Jack cheese, tomatoes, poblanos and onions and you become addicted to this. They also make a green mole that I actually like (and I am not a mole fan as a rule). This is a popular spot for business lunches.

El Sol y La Luna is the kind of place that will lift up your spirits on any visit. Nllda de la Lata is a gracious and knowledgeable owner and she runs a tight and tasty ship. Great weekend brunches and the Shrimp Enchiladas with sour cream on Fridays are over the top. I also love the Gorditas!

Cantina Laredo is a downtown Mexican dining spot that got off to a bit of a slow start but has become a very popular dining spot. They make a beautiful table side Guacamole Salad and I have become a huge fan of their Carnitas. I also really like the Shrimp Flautas.


Recommendations for the Weekend: Places to take the kids

This being Halloween weekend, there’s going to be lots of parent-child interactions and to paraphrase Paul Simon, nuclear family reunions. So let’s focus on restaurants that have food that is kid-friendly but that still works for older siblings and mom and pop.

Hangtown Grill has a very popular location in Westlake at 360 and Bee Caves (next to Thai Spice) and has just opened at 2222 and Burnet. What’s not to like here? Burgers, pizza, fish tacos, and scrumptious milk shakes. The kiddie décor has been replaced by a more upscale ambience but the kids still like it, and what’s more, they eat free!

Jason’s Deli has six Austin locations and tell me a kid who doesn’t enjoy a visit there. When Rusty Coco, one of the founders asked my daughter Lauren how long she’d been going there, she replied without hesitation: “Since I’ve been alive!” My kids always loved the free soft ice cream machine that was the imperative signature to the end of the lunch or dinner.

Dan’s Hamburgers is a kid favorite if I ever saw one. Winner of our FOX 7 “Best Cheeseburger in Austin” a few years ago, they have kept up their good form as my recent visits there have confirmed.

Hoover’s Cooking is another joint that kids and parents find very appealing. With locations at Manor and Research, Hoover Alexander is one of the nicest guys and best cooks you’ll ever find. No kind can resist his cornbread or his incredible mac and cheese. The adults can’t lay off the Smothered Porkchops or the Chicken Fried Steak.

Mighty Fine Burgers also seems to appeal to both generations. The cheeseburgers are amazing and the fresh cut fries are a must with the younger set. I actually saw two kids on my last visit, about 7-8 years old, wolfing down the fries and running back up to get another order. The atmosphere is totally kid friendly and they squeeze their own lemonade there.

1626 Café on S. Manchaca is another local kid spot. The pizza is quite good, the burgers are bodacious and real [that has a familiar ring to it] and on top of that they have a cool game room. If ever there was a place where families were fated to spend time together, it’s 1626 Café.

Pok-e-Jo’s is a BBQ joint that I get great feedback on from parents who take the little ones there. They have multiple locations and the chicken, always a kid favorite is moist and tender. They also love the baked potato casserole. For the adults, Pok-e-Jo’s delivers some seriously good BBQ.

So sample some of these this weekend. Your kiddos will thank you and you’ll be pleased as well. And remember, you COULD have been dining at Chuck E Cheese.


Recommendations for the weekend: Let's do Asian

Here we are approaching another fall weekend. For some reason, as the weather quickens, my yearning for Asian foods always ratchets up a few notches.

So where to go:

How about to 2013 Wells Branch Parkway and Chon Som (means spoon and fork in Thai)? Nat and Alicia really know how to create some mouthwatering dishes. I love the Drunken Noodles and all the sushi is fresh and reasonable. Plus Chon Som is a genuinely fun place to spend an afternoon or evening.

Another very cool place to go is Tomodachi at 4501 W. Pamer (up from Cool River). Owner Steve Riad worked at the uber hot Nobu in Los Angeles and the guy knows how to slice fish! This is the real deal for Sushi and Japanese. 821-9472.

Newly opened at the Triangle off 47th and Lamar is a wonderful new restaurant called Yume. The concept is a fusion of Japanese and Island (Caribbean) fare and it absolutely rocks. You can try dishes from the fattiest toros to a mellt-in-your-mouth yucca patty. Oh and do try the Chocolate Coffee Rub Pork Belly and the Beef Oishi. 407-9001

On W 6th St. across from the Star Bar you’ll find another of my Thai favorites: Thai Tara. Yupa Rushing has crafted a great little restaurant here with wonderful curries, lovely satays, and probably the best Pad Prik King in the city. The Pad Thai is to die for as well. 236-0856.

And how could we forget one of the oldest and certainly the best Chinese restaurant in the city Chinatown Greystone. Ronald Cheng has forgotten more than most chefs know about Chinese food. His Thai Pepper Basil Shimp is to die for, as are the Jade Dumplings and the Vegetable Lo Mein. Oh, and how could I forget the Sea Bass and the Honey Pepper Beef. I could go on but I think you get the point. 343-9307

Chinatown is upstairs from the mother of all Austin sushi bars, Musashino Owner Smokey has tutored such luminaries as Tyson Cole of Uchi and Chef Tatsu of Imperia. In his own kitchen, he is the unchallenged master, in my opinion. 795-8593


Recommendations for the Weekend: Road Trip!

It looks like we’re finally going to have one of those classic Texas fall weekends: pleasant temperatures, relatively low humidity; the kind of weekend that makes you want to jump in the car and go.

So what better time than to check out some of our “road trip” recommendations.

In Johnson City, you’ve got to try a marvelous little restaurant called the Silver K Café. It’s owned by a couple who came down to the Hill Country from Seattle to retire. But they just couldn’t handle all the leisure: so they started a restaurant. It’s named after Kaye, the Mrs. In the duo, and the food is terrific. I’ll be posting a formal review in a few weeks but for now, just click on the link to see their website.

In Marble Falls, by all means try Patton’s on Main. This is a local boy makes good story is there ever was one. Chef Patton Robertson, a Marble Falls high graduate, went off to see the world, became a chef, worked for Wolfgang Puck and eventually decided to come back to Marble Falls and open a restaurant. I love this place. Patton works with local growers and features dishes unique to the Hill Country. One of my favs is The Wild Mushroom Soup.

Another must stop on your road trip is Café Mangu in Pflugerville. This is THE definitive Caribbean restaurant in the area with wonderful Yucca Fritters, Lechon Asado (pork loin) and a killer Arroz con Pollo [chicken with rice]. I love this place. The mojo is on the money and the staff is very friendly.

And if you’re heading north on Highway 71 toward Spicewood make sure to grab a bite at Angel’s Icehouse. This is a classic Texas road joint with oodles of tasty comfort food. The Macaroni and Cheese Wedges are a caloric disaster but are they ever good. Ditto for the Chicken Fried Steak and the giagantic Bacon Swiss and Mushroom Burger. There’s live music out back on weekends and a lively bar scene as well. Ask for Mary or Sara, the two cutest restaurant owners around, and tell them we sent you.

And if you’re heading East on Highway 71 towards Bastrop, stop at the Hyatt Lost Pines resort and dine at either the excellent Firewheel Café or their signature Stories restaurant (the subject of this week’s review). Stories is the newest addition to our Top 20 and it’s a sensational restaurant. Check out my review either on our site or click on the FOX 7 archives link and see the TV feature. Great place!

Also, there’s a little pecan store on 71 not far from the Hyatt resort called Berdoll’s Pecan Farm. They’ve got this gigantic flashing neon sign outside and I love the chocolate covered pecans. This place looks like an early Vegas gift shop but the pecans and the pie are excellent. This place is a guilty pleasure. (512) 303-6517


Recommendations for the Weekend: Let’s Do Brunch!

Austin abounds with excellent choices for Sunday Brunch: from the very high end of Fonda San Miguel and Trio to the more modestly priced but not less excellent fare at Dim Sum places like Shanghai and Chinatown.

Here are some of my favorites:

Trio at the Four Seasons: Still the best brunch in town in humble opinion. Pricey but worth it.

Fonda San Miguel. By far the best Mexican brunch in town. Also pricey and also worth it.

Iron Cactus. All three locations including the new store at the Hill Country Galleria. Very reasonable brunch ($14) featuring American and Mexican breakfast fare.

Café Blue at Volente Beach on Lake Travis. Order off the menu and make sure to try the Eggs Benedict Arnold ($12) or the Devil’s Cove Burrito. Both are terrific.

Chez Zee. One of the few restaurants to have both a Saturday and Sunday brunch (9-3pm). Highlights include the Migas, The Crème Brulet French Toast (decadent) and the Omelets.

The Oasis. Killer lake views and excellent brunch choices under the watchful eye of Chef Matthew Weyland. I always start with the Paritas and then the Crawfish Benedict!

Shanghai. Fantatic dim sum brunches on both Saturday and Sunday from 11am-3pm. John and Raymond Yim know a thing or two this Chinese classic.


Rob's Recommendations for the Weekend: Head to the Burbs!

This weekend will be chaotic to say the least in the downtown area. With ACL and a UT home game, well, do the math.

So to paraphrase Horace Greely, "Go to the suburbs, young man!" There's lots of great dining options outside the downtown area.

For Italian, try Andiamo at Burnet and Rutland. Great food and classy atmosphere.

For Chinese, head to Shanghai at Middle Fiskville Rd and IH35. Marvelous family food from Raymond and John Yim.

For a great steak, by all means go to Cool River on Parmer Lane. I love this place.

For Thai and Vietnamese, head out to Bee Caves and Blue Bamboo. Not only is Lan a great cook, she also does pedicures at the shop next door! Talk about multi-tasking.

For Mexican, Rosie 's on Highway 71 and a bit further at Hamilton Pool Road, Verdes. Both are Balon family favorites.

And over in Lakeway, by all means try the wonderful Ciola's (Southern Italian), Thai Spice (Thai), Pao's (Mainland Chinese) and further up Hwy 620 don't forget the beautifully rebuilt Oasis with a sparkling new menu helmed by one of my favorite chefs, Matthew Weyland.

BBQ Recommendations for the Weekend

Here is a quick synopsis of some of my favorites both in and out of Austin.

Rudy's BBQ. The moist brisket is absolutely fantastic. The best in the universe! And, according to a recent study at Texas A&M, it is actually good for you! Also love the St. Louis Ribs and the Creamed Corn.

The Salt Lick. Though their white table cloth experiment in Davenport Village failed, the original in Driftwood is still as good as it was in 1969 when it opened! Great sausage, ribs and wonderful potato salad. And the atmosphere is downright bucolic. Also opening, more appropriately, in Round Rock.

Uncle Billy's. Just celebrating its first anniversary, Uncle Billy's on Barton Springs blends BBQ with the amazing brews of master Brian Peters. I like the Jalapeno Cheese Sausage and the brisket salad the best. Also really over the top is macaroni and cheese. Try Brian's IPA as well.

The Green Mesquite. You want to talk iconic? This place goes back to the 1940's. But today it serves up good BBQ along with burgers and chicken fried steaks. I really like the Sausage Sandwich and the Mesquite Smoked Wings. Seriously good smoked chicken as well.

Ruby's BBQ. Anthony Bourdain, the wild man of food, loves this place. And what's not to love? The Cajun Spice Beef Ribs are to die for. The Baby back Pork Ribs are also a blast. On W. 29th St.

The County Line. Golfer Ben Crenshaw sends the CL's beef ribs to his pals on the PGA and Champion's tours. As well he should. They are still the best I've ever tasted. Also really enjoy their pork loin.

Pok-e-Jo's. A local chain that has a fiercely loyal following. The Sausage is terrific and the Pork Loin is exemplary. And the sides! The Baked Potato casserole is the bomb as is the broccoli salad.

Cooper's BBQ. This historic joint in Llano has many things going for it, but the Big Chop has got to be the best. This is a center cut 2" pork chop cooked over mesquite coals. Amazing flavor here. Worth the one hour drive up highway 71 from Austin.

Southside Market and BBQ. 123 years old and going strong, this place is probably as famous as Dr. Phil's statue in Elgin. Great steaks and pork spareribs and of course, the best of them all, Elgin Sausage (hot and worth it).


Dinner at Trio at the 4 Seasons

This is not a formal review: not just yet. It's more of a reflection, a first-blush reaction, if you will, of what I suspect will be a permanent resident in our Top 20. It's the new restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel: Trio!

We've been there for brunch several times and I must admit, while the food was still excellent, I was a bit put off by the predominantly orange color scheme. It reminded me of early Las Vegas or the tacky part of South Beach in Miami. I wasn't sure which one.

But that was during the day. Somehow, the colors were less garish and more interesting in the evening when we tried our first off-the-menu meal at Trio. And what a meal it was! I have been a long-time fan of the inimitable Elmar Prambs, who helmed the Café at the Four Seasons since its opening and oversaw the transition last year into Trio. He is ably complemented by Sous Chef Todd Duplechan and Pastry Chef Naomi Gallego.

We started with several appetizers including an English Pea Ravioli which also included ricotta, corn and morel mushrooms. The flavors here were, as has usually been the case with Chef Prambs, impeccable. We also tried the Crab Fondue served with a crisp bruschetta. This was over the top. The sauce had huge chunks of lump crab in it and I wiped out my ample supply of bruschetta dipping up the delightful mixture.

We then tried the very engaging Roasted Beet and Bleu Cheese Salad. The flavors here were lovely. This is one of Elmar's favorites and it shows in the preparation.

Also tried the Trio of Baby Iceberg salad with an herb vinaigrette, Green Goddess, and a balsamic vinaigrette dressings. Crumpled bacon and caramelized onions topped this seriously tasty salad.

The entrees were redolent of the deft touch of Prambs and his crew. Marge had the Sauteed French Dover Sole. Every morsel of this dish was light, flaky, and coated with flavor. And Elmar Prambs would never do a menu without his classic Viener Schnitzel. Nor could I get away from dining at Trio without trying it. And the payoff was ample. The pork was tender and had a very mellow flavor to it. The accompanying Ramp Spaetzles were spot on: the perfect complement to this dish.

The other sides were quite good with one minor exception. I didn't care for the Truffle Macaroni. It was a bit over the top for me with that characteristic truffle taste that can overpower a dish.

The desserts were delightful. I tried the Lemon Tart with Fresh Rhubarb and the presentation along with the taste was stunning. We also tried a trio of raspberry, lemon and mango sorbets that went down very easily.

And yes, it was our anniversary. You know, I really like this job!



Rob's Favorites from the Wine Spectator Grand Tour 2008

When Wine Spectator Editor and Publisher Marvin Shanken conceived the idea of the "Grand Tour" back in 2001, the idea was to bring a number of well-known wines, classics that are hard to find, and new releases all together in one room on one night. Wine aficionados immediately adopted the idea. And as a result, the first weekend in May is permanently etched on my calendar with a trip to Las Vegas at the Venetian Hotel's Grand Ballroom.

This year may have been the best of all. The wines poured were all top-scoring wines. Tragically, I had hyper extended my knee days before the trip but I was not to be deterred. I got one of those scooters one sees in retirement villages and, with the able assistance of fellow Gonzo Art San Miguel, negotiated my way through the teeming masses of wine lovers pretty much without incident.

Where to start? Well why not with the always superlative Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon Special Selection 2005. The line was long but people deferred to the gimp on the scooter and we got right through. Wow! This big cab is a treat. Not at all astringent with an exceptional finish and redolent of blackberries and earth. We loved it. This is the highest priced Caymus but one you simply have to try.


Art San Miguel gets a taste of the Caymus Special Selection '05

Next stop was director and vineyard owner Francis Coppola's extraordinary Rubicon Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford '05. The name Rubicon refers to the forbidden Rubicon River in Northern Italy which Julius Caesar crossed with his army, setting into motion events which would resonate down through the ages. When he launched his winery, Coppola, a fan of history, was heard to paraphrase the remark that the Roman general had made famous: "The die is cast!"

And wine fans should be happy that Coppola crossed his own Rubicon. The wine is exceptional. Wine critic Mary Ewing Mulligan called it "rich and soft and seductive yet very powerful." I couldn't agree more. It has a high degree of tannins but lacks the astringency one sees in young wines. The wine retails at around $85 and worth every penny.


We are so glad that Francis Coppola didn't stop at Godfather II and started making wines as well

One of the pleasant value wines we discovered with DaVinci Chianti Riserva 2004. This is a steal at $24.00. It was very mellow for a relatively young Chianti with great mid-palate taste sensations. I was wishing, as I sat in my scooter, that someone would bring me a bowl of pasta to enjoy this with really neat wine.


If you're ever in Vinci, Italy (near Florence) stop by and meet winemaker Alberto Antonini.
I love his DaVinvi and so does my wallet

No visit to the Grand Tour is complete without stopping by perennial favorite Chateau Palmer. The 2004 Chateau Palmer Margaux is being compared to the stunning 1966. It was awarded 94 points by Wine Spectator.
I tasted rich fruits with no overstatement whatsoever. Eminently drinkable now, just wait five years. Around $125 per bottle.


They take everything very seriously at Chateau Palmer, including the pouring.
This was the closest we saw him come to a smile all evening

My vote for best Chardonnay of the show went to Grgich Hill's Napa Valley Carneros 2005. This is a crisp, wine that holds up beautifully over time. They do not allow malolatic fermentation which preserves that aforementioned crispness and adds balance. Winemaker Mike Grgich is a legend in Napa Valley for shocking the wine world by winning a competition in Paris is 1973 (taking down more than one serious Burgundy in the process). Retail cost is about $40.


Grgich Hills Chardonnays have graced the tables of many a White House dinner.
It's a staple at Balon dinners as well

I was also very impressed with Patz & Hall, another Napa Valley Winery and their Zio Tony Ranch 2005 Chadonnay. This is smooth and silky, a little dryer than the Grgich Hills, but absolutely delicious. It reminded me, strangely, of a White Bordeaux. But I really enjoyed it. Retail cost is about $60.


Patz & Hall has been around since 1988.
The makers are dedicated to the notion of single-vineyard Chardonnays.

The Ernie Els Stellenbosch 2004 was our next visit. I've come to really appreciate this cab blend from S. Africa. First because as a huge golf fan, I thought it was cool the Ernie had started a winery. But then I met his partner, Jean Engelbrecht, had the first of many tastings, and my interest in this wine increased exponentially. Engelbrecht comes from generations of South African vintners and was a boyhood friend of Els. Together with winemaker Louis Strydom, they have crafted a marvelous wine. (Rated 91 in Wine Spectator.) This wine has superb length with a pleasant surprise at the end in the form of fruit and spices. $93.00


Jean Engelbrecht and Rob posed with a bottle of the '04.
Minutes after this was taken, they arm wrestled!

The wine of the evening for me was the Les Forts de Latour Pauillac 2005. This is a remarkable Bordeaux that will last for easily 20 years. The tannins are velvety and the finish amazing. I got hints of blue and black fruit. Because I was the poor gimp in the scooter, they took pity on me and let me sample more than my allotment. That was very pleasing. There were only 10,000 cases produced so availability may be an issue. Cost is high at $200. But what amazing flavor. If you have an opportunity to taste this wine, do it. You will be delighted!


The pourer is noticeably proud of the les Forts de Latour. She should be

Other interesting finds, people, and wine notes from the Grand Tour.

The Chateau Canon St. Emilion 2000. This is a classic from the vineyard that lies on the celebrated limestone escarpment of the Pieds de Cotes. The wine has great balance. $115.00

The Catena Zapata Malbec Mendoza Alta 2004. This is a stunning example of what the Malbec grape can accomplish when grown in the high altitudes of Argentina. This is 100% Malbec and a beautiful wine with a lengthy finish that shows wonderful minerality with finely grained tannins and lively acidity. Price: $43. I had the chance to drink a lot of this wine at the Texas Hill Country Wine and Food Festival (The Hot Blooded Latins seminar). Goes beautifully with seared meats.

So I'm motoring along on my scooter and someone yells out "Hey Rob!" Now this is in Las Vegas. Well who should be there but June, a waitperson from Uchi and her friend who used to work at the Driskill. Small world, huh?

Green Point Yara Valley Reserve Chardonnay 2005. This winery was begun by Moet Chandon to produce sparkling wines and still wines. I love the Chardonnay. It's got a bright, fruity taste with a hint of apricot. It's a perfect wine to go with shellfish, particularly lobster. Price $30.00.


After three hours of sipping and noshing, people just get, well, happy.
Marge and Carol were no exceptions to the Grand Tour rule

The place was packed with wine lovers. But at least in first couple of hours, most were accommodating to the gimp in the scooter! We'll definitely be heading back next year. Feel free to email me with any questions about the wines discussed.

For more information about these and other great wines, check out Taste Select Wines and Twin Liquors.


Dining, Wining and Relaxing at Las Colinas in Acapulco

Imagine for a moment a villa dramatically perched on the side of a mountain overlooking Acapulco Bay. Let you mind run further to a world-class chef available at your beck and call, to a bartender of great creativity and skill, and a house manager whose efficiency is rivaled only by her pleasant demeanor.

That about sums up our recent trip to Las Colinas, a five-bedroom villa in Acapulco. Every day our biggest responsibilities were to determine when we wanted our meals and what we wanted to eat. The rest was left to the amazing staff. Most days we arose between 9 and 9:30am, but if we arose at 10 it didn’t matter. Fresh brewed coffee was always waiting for us and breakfast was when we wanted it.

A typical breakfast might have consisted of a fresh fruit platter with papayas, multiple varieties of sweet mangos, watermelons, green melons, and pineapples. Later would come bacon, omelets made to order, incredible refried beans, homemade corn tortillas, chimichiles, and the sweetest most piquant pico de gallo that I’ve ever tasted. On alternate days, chef Leo made the most amazing French toast stuffed with bananas and cream cheese.

Lunch again occurred when we cared to have it. No timetables were set. A typical lunch might have been an astonishing mushroom soup, chalupas with pico de gallo, guacamole, and a tomatilla salsa, along with Mexican rice and refried beans (I could not get enough of these beans).

Or we might have been treated to asparagus soup, cheeseburgers with homemade papas fritas (French fries), and a lovely fruit salad. Whatever we wanted, all we had to do was ask and the staff would buy and prepare the food.

Dinners were served in a dining room constructed over a massive boulder that overlooks both the pool and the Acapulco skyline. Again, dinner was whenever we wanted it. The first night we began with an amazing cream of celery soup, a sparkling salad, and some of the best Chille Rellenos we’d ever tried. Dessert was homemade Key Lime Pie and it was to die for.

Another night the menu was a cool Avocado soup, a calamari salad, and an exquisite pan fried Sea Bass with fresh green beans and scalloped potatoes. Dessert was a killer flan.

And so it went: each meal more spectacular than the next. We picked out wines at the local wine store and drank several bottles each night that would have cost 200% more has we ordered them at a local restaurant.

The time in between the scrumptious meals was spent swimming in the pool that overlooked the bay, playing games in the spacious and totally comfortable outside living area, and ordering Rum Punches, Cervesas, Pina Coladas and whatever else we wanted from Fredo. We played games, read, watched videos, and totally indulged ourselves in one of the most beautiful weeks we’d ever had. Oh, and did I forget to mention the masseuses who were at our beck and call for just $25 for a 50 minute massage? The ladies went nuts over Raquel and her hand made jewelry (she put on a show at the villa).

So if you’re getting the picture here, with the exception of a short excursion to the Mirador Hotel to watch the famed cliff divers, we did not leave the Las Colinas compound for 8 days. There was no reason to. And trust me, if you are looking for beautiful accommodations, fine dining, and serene blissful days: in short, a really relaxing vacation, then Las Colinas is your destination.


Fredo may be the most congenial and talented bartender/waiter/tour guide we’ve ever met. Neat guy.


A view from the pool at Las Colinas. Rob spent an inordinate amount of time in there.


The upstairs dining room: beautifully appointed and with an amazing night-time view of Acapulco.


Leo, the chef extraordinare. Everything the guy touches turns to “oro”.


Mushrooms on the boil as Leo prepares his famous Cream of Mushroom Soup.


It always pays to develop a healthy relationship with the head chef. Here, Rob and Leo bond.

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You want fresh? These tomatoes and tomatillos are right off the vine.


Delores, the house manager became pals with Marge.
Believe it or not, Delores has a 16-year old grandaoughter!


The downstairs dining area where we had breakfast and lunch.
From left to right: Marge, son-in-law John Taylor, Carole and Art San Miguel, and daughter Jen.


Fredo serves some amazing Cream of Asparagus soup.


John, Marge, Art, Hermes (our gardener), Carol and Fredo.

Alas, it’s time to leave. Where did the week go? For more information, go to www.theriotvillas.com.

05/08/2008


Pizza Wars III

Welcome to yet another edition of our recurring series known as Pizza Wars. Our mission is to rank central Texas pizza joints into categories relative to their appeal.

At the bottom, and deservedly so, is the always awful Dominoes. How this chain has survived is beyond me. Their crust is wretched: soggy and without taste. Just a neck above Dominoes is the woeful CiCI’s and the steadily declining Mr. Gatti’s. Little Caesar’s isn’t much better.


Double Dave’s is a bit of an improvement and Pizza Hut can sometimes actually be surprisingly edible.

Papa John's has improved, I’ll say that for them. Truth is though, that most of these pizzas must be eaten quickly. Time does not serve them well. And none of them can pass the refrigerator test. And I am still trying to figure out what the hell is so special about California Pizza Kitchen? The name? That’s all I can think of. Or perhaps that it’s at the mall. Shoppers are strange: they will eat average pizza because it’s where they are shopping.

Moving up, even though it’s a national chain, you have to give some props to Buca di Bepo. Their Margherita pizza is pretty darned good. I’m also starting to really like the pizzas at Craig O’s which has two locations on 290 and Balcones. Local chain Mangia makes a good deep dish pie but I’m not a big fan of that genre. But I’ve heard many good things about their pies from deep dish fans. Austin’s Pizza has declined a bit since their sale and downsizing, but they are still pretty good. Another good recommendation is Southside Pizza on S. Congress (442-4246).

Moving still much further up the food chain, I really like Mangieri’s in far S. Austin at Slaughter and Escarpment. This is a family-owned spot and their whole wheat crust is the bomb. In fact all their crusts are delightful. And do make it a point to try Rounder’s on W. 6th. Their garlic knots are amazing and the pizza is very tasty.

Also very good is East Side Pies over in east Austin. Serious east coast sensibilities here. Ditto for Brooklyn Pies with locations in N. Austin, Round Rock and Georgetown. Another recommendation is Arpeggio Grill on Airport just north of Highland Mall (419-0110). And the pizza at Vespaio Enoteca (441-7672), the sister place to Vespaio on S. Congress features wonderfully crisp crusts with interesting combinations. And what’s not to like about the venerable Frank and Angie’s? Don King turned me on to this place and I owe him a debt of gratitude. Also cool sandwiches and tasty cannolis. And Milto’s on Guadalupe has been cranking out excellent pies for a number of years. You want to talk vintage Austin? This it it.

At the very top tier, there are some serious contenders for the crown. Home Slice on S. Congress has become one of my favorites. It’s not quite New Haven, CT quality (as they advertise) but it’s very good. Kudos to them for having the huevos to try and do a clam pizza. Their crusts have classic east coast texture. Available by the slice. A relatively new player on the scene is Salvation Pizza (535-0076) on W. 34th St. (former home of Starlite). These people are from Hartford, CT and they know how to bring it. This is what a sausage pizza should taste like. Saccones, with a new location in Round Rock has vintage NY-style flavors and textures. They’ve been at or near the top of our list since they opened. And deservedly so. You want a gigantic slice of good pizza? Try Ropollo’s on E. 6th St. They get it right almost every time here and they have a walk-up window on 6th. I once ordered the large sausage and mushroom at our office. It must have weighed 10 pounds! The delivery guy had trouble getting it up the stairs.

And Brick Oven, the first pizza place I ever really liked in Austin is still doing well. They have locations on Slaughter, Red River and Jollyville and I still love their vegetarian pie. Great flavor! And whatever you do, don’t overlook the pizza at Cipollina on West Lynn. Crispy crusts, wonderful cheese, and great sauces and toppings. The quality of their pies may derive from the fact that they are an overall excellent restaurant that just happens to serve pizza as one of its offerings. Another old favorite still going strong is Reale’s on 183. This family-owned classic has what may be the best pepperoni pizza in the area.

So who is #1? I tell you what; it’s so close at the top that I can’t make up my mind. But you are welcome to cast your ballot here. Perhaps you can help me crown the new king for ’08.

12/21/07


By Popular Demand: Rob’s Family Recipe for Stuffed Mushrooms

This is one of the most delicious Thanksgiving appetizers you’ll find anywhere and it’s been a fixture in our household since the days when my grandmother worked her culinary magic every holiday season.

Hint: Be careful when you put he mushrooms in the broiler. Watch them carefully because they can go from brown to charred in a nanosecond.

Grandma Balon’s Stuffed Mushrooms

3 boxes of white or “button” mushrooms. Larger is better than smaller.
3 cans of deviled ham
1 loaf of thinly sliced Pepperidge Farm bread
1 medium white onion
1 stick of butter
Thoroughly wash mushrooms.
Remove stems from all the mushrooms.
Cut each stem into tiny slices.
Remove the crust from the loaf of bread.
Dice about one half of the onion.
Sautee the onion until golden brown in 1/4 stick of butter.
Add the stems and continue to sautee for about five mintues
Add the rest of the butter and allow it to melt.
Add the ham and the bread: each slice quartered.
Stir until all elements are combined and you have one amazingly tasty stuffing.
Stuff each mushroom. Be generous.
Prepare broiler and get it up to heat.
Insert your mushrooms on a cookie tray or something similar and broil about 12 minutes until brown.
Be careful: broilers vary. Keep and eye on them.
They can go from brown to charred very quickly if you’re not paying attention.

Serve immediately. They are fantastic. And they reheat beautifully.

11/19/07


Sunday Brunch: Rob's Recommendations

One of our favorite dining pastimes is a leisurely Sunday Brunch. It can be laid back and casual, or elegant and unhurried depending on our mood. The good news is that Austin abounds with brunch choices at all ends of the budget and ambiance spectrums.


Trio. A very expensive brunch at $44.95 per person, this is one where you linger and savor. Everything from sushi and sashimi to dim sum, salads, wonderful pates, Eggs Benedict, killer waffles, fantastic omelets, and a variety of delicious entrees. Book early for this one as it fills up quickly, price notwithstanding. 478-4500.

Green Pastures. Under the steady hand of Executive chef Charles Bloemsma, this brunch is $30. Always a serious prime rib with innovative and tasty salads and wonderful pastas and the neatest Brandy Alexander punch in the city. 444-1888

Iron Cactus on Stonegate should not be overlooked in the brunch arena. For $13.95, you can get cinnamon rolls and assorted muffins, fruit, bacon and sausage, and custom breakfast tacos. Also an omelet and waffle station. 794-8778

The Hill Country Dining Room at Barton Creek Resort is open to the public as well as members and guests. $29.95 for a varied brunch along the lines of the fare at Four Seasons. Great views from the dining room as well. 329-4000

The Oasis overlooking Lake Travis is always a great spot for brunch. Theirs is an order-off-the-menu affair with no set price. I love the piratas and the Tortilla soup along with the Chimchanga. 266-2442

Fonda San Miguel may well be the granddaddy of all the killer brunches in the city. Expensive at $38.95, but you get an astonishing array of the marvelous cuisine of Miguel Rovago. The Camarones de Ajo alone are wroth the prices of admission. 459-4121

Moonshine Patio Bar and Grill, Austin's homage to comfort food, offers fare from the regular menu each Sunday. Favorite spot of the Bush sisters, Chef Larry Perdido knows how to bring it. 236-9599

El Sol y La Luna. Wonderful breakfast fare at this S. Congress institution. Very reasonable prices. Say hi to Nilda when you go in. 444-7770

Hoover's Cooking. On Manor Road with a new location just opened at Research and Anderson Mill, Hoover delivers southern soul food with a flourish. And his Sunday brunch also features a blond etouffee that will knock your socks off. You will not leave here hungry. 479-5006

Shanghai. Best new dim sum brunch in town. Saturday and Sunday from 11am-3pm.

Chez Zee. On 5406 Balcones. Another brunch spot with classic lineage. Sharon Watkins and the gang will cook you pancakes that will melt in mouth, Eggs Benedict and the amazing Zee Migas along with the astonishing crème brulee French Toast. 454-2666.


Cannoli Joe's. This is a very-family friendly Sunday buffet with Italian favorites as well as traditional breakfast favorites.

Joe’s Bakery. The very best traditional Mexican breakfast in town. The Huevos Rancheros with flour-coated deep fried bacon are amazing.

11/02/2007


Lajitas: Gourmet Dining in the Middle of Nowhere

I have always enjoyed the high deserts of the American southwest. The stark, desolate landscape with its endless vistas may seem foreboding to some but to me it is almost perfect. There is genuine space out here: more than enough to lose… or find oneself.

Austin telecom pioneer Steve Smith must have been on that same wavelength when he created the "ultimate hideout" at Lajitas near the entrance to Big Bend National Park. Lajitas can best be described as a resort with rustic luxury that does its absolute best to seamlessly blend in with the rugged landscape. The resort has all the amenities one would expect from an upscale resort: a 7500 ft runway for private jets, a spa, impressive stables, a theatre and an amazing golf course (Ambush). But most importantly, it has a stunning gourmet restaurant called Ocotillo.


The Ocotillo Restaurant


Executive Chef Al Cannito
When Smith first envisioned Lajitas, he called famed Austin chef Jeff Blank from Hudson's on the Bend. Blank flew down and designed the kitchen and the concept: cost was not an issue. They wanted southwest quality and panache. And I'll tell you what: they achieved it! While Blank is no longer involved in the day-to-day operations at Ocotillo, Executive Chef Al Cannito and Sous Chef Blas Gonzales are running a restaurant that has astonishing diversity and quality, given its remote location. Cannito has a varied background including a stint in China and in Florida with the Ritz Hotel group. Gonzales cooked alongside Blank at Hudson's in Austin for many years.

There are several culinary themes that run through Al's menu at Ocotillo. The first is the wild game influence that Blank introduced at Hudson's and the second is the indigenous herbs and spices that give the area its unique flavors. I left Ocotillo with a number of favorite dishes. Here are just a few of them that I would consider mandatory tasting for one's first visit.

The Trio of Wild Game Raviolis.

This appetizer completely blew me away. The tastes were absolutely riveting. The first leg of the trifecta consisted of venison ravioli with a tomato oregano coulis. The second offering was a ravioli stuffed with pheasant in a white chocolate alfredo sauce. The sauce was remarkable: beautifully nuanced and with great depths of flavor. And finally the last ravioli was stuffed with rabbit and presented with a porcini mushroom cream sauce. You must try this when you dine at Ocotillo.

The Southern Hot and Crunchy Trio.

This is another of Chef Al's stellar appetizers. The dish consists of green tomatoes, avocadoes, and tiger shrimp each coated in an amazingly fulsome batter and fried to perfection. Each of the stars of the trio has its own unique sauce designed to complement and enhance the items. We had this several nights and could not get enough of it.

The Cowboy Porterhouse Steak.

If you prefer beautifully marbled flavor, then the Cowboy porterhouse streak is for you. I ordered mine medium rare (and paired it with a Canoe Ridge cabernet). The steak comes with horseradish whip potatoes and a unique roasted elephant garlic. From the very first bite the taste of this dish announces itself and the flavors don't stop after that.

The Kurobuta Pork Tenderloin.

This is the pork equivalent of Kobe beef. Korobuta pork has meat that is darker and well-marbled. And it's obvious that Chef Al knows his way around this product. He marinated it in Negro Modelo beer and finished it with a demi glaze of roasted shallots. It was an exhilarating taste experience and another must-try upon your visit to Lajitas.

For more information on this amazing destination, check out www.lajitas.com.


For Your Holiday Reading: A Week in the Life of a Food Critic

Since Dining Out with Rob will be on hiatus for the Christmas holiday, we wanted to leave you with some reading material that we thought you might enjoy. I've received many emails from readers who have asked exactly how a food critic spends his week. Well, here is a typical week from my recent food life. Now remember, I run a market research firm (Benchmark) by day, but even my business lunches are always conducted with at least an eye toward mining the experience for later editorial content. I'm not much of a breakfast guy, usually coffee, so it's mostly lunch and dinner except where noted. And to answer a FAQ, no we don't eat home very much.

Monday

Lunch at Ruggle's Grill in Westlake. Had the crabmeat and corn chowder (love that soup) and their very interesting calamari salad. Also got the black pepper pasta with garlic cream sauce and diced chicken. It was excellent. Westlake is tough on restaurants. Ruggle's is damned good. I sincerely hope they stay the course.

Dinner was take-home from Chinatown on Greystone. Ronald Cheng is a culinary legend in Austin and deservedly so. Had the Taiwanese Seafood Soup, the Thai Pepper Basil Shrimp, the Honey Pepper Beef, and vegetables with tofu. Love this place. Cheng's flavors are genuine and he doesn't use much, if any MSG.

Tuesday

Lunch with my son-in-law John Taylor at Bess, Sandra Bullock's new restaurant. John had the Sheperd's Pie while I had the Croque Monsieur. Both were good although mine was a bit cold. The place has just opened and they're still sorting the service and prep issues out. Many people came in looking for Sandy but alas, she was in LA. She does not want this to be the typical "celebrity" restaurant but I don't see how she can avoid that aspect of it, particularly when the opening gets covered in People Magazine.

Nonetheless, Brenton Childs is a seasoned pro (from Vespaio) and this place is going to be good, even without sightings of Sandra.

Dinner with Marge at the newly opened III Forks at Cesar Chavez and Lavaca. They are dishing up some serious steak at this comfy, toney, about-to-be-adopted-by-the-cognoscenti restaurant. This is the sister of the fabulously successful Dallas original III Forks and so far, so good. I had a ribeye that was absolutely stunning while she had the succulent Dover Sole. Jamie Guttierez, late of Cool River, is one of my favorite chefs and he is in good form. Mega realtor Tosca Gruber informed me that while she and Tom Meredith (Dell) had tried to get into Bess and were unsuccessful, that III Forks had accommodated them at the last moment. I think III Forks gets the art of business dining. It's called accommodation.

Wednesday

Lunch in Lake Travis at a newish Mexican place, Los Pinos. On Hudson Bend Blvd. Chef Margarito (named after his mom) Maldanado can make carnitas that will bring a tear to your eye. His enchiladas are terrific and the shrimp fajitas are the bomb. Not wild about the tortilla soup (too dense) but I can live with that. This place deserves recognition.

Dinner for the second time at Will Packwood's new Cibo on Congress. I'm getting ready for the review on this one and I'm paying particular attention to texture, flavor and originality. I've been a fan of Packwood since Emilia's and later "7", but Cibo is going to be his pies de resistance. I tried the Ricotta Cheese Gnocchi and it was nothing short of spectacular. He changes the gnocchi daily and I wish I could dine there daily. The Papperdelle with a short rib ragout was astonishing. And the Fegatini (chicken liver pate) with macerated grapes no less was delightful.. I sincerely hope that that the third time's the charm for Packwood. The place is simple, almost austere, just like the best Italian meals.

Thursday

Stopped by the hot new Belmont on W. 6th with a Benchmark client and had a quick lunch. The Belmont has got this early 60's rat pack Sinatra lounge thing going and it's working. The place is packed every night with lots of cute young women in little black dresses but the food should not be overlooked. It's damned good. I had the French Onion soup. When's the last time you've seen that on a menu? It was excellent. Loads of flavor but not too strong as can often happen with this soup. And we had Cubano sandwiches with fries. The Cubano is a tough sandwich to do correctly. But the Belmont gets it. Last Cubano I tried at Habana was dry and not very tasty. But the Belmont's was moist, crisp on the outside, and very satisfying. Need to get back here several more times and get a full review ready. But this looks to be another winner for the Matt Lucky (love that name).

Dinner with Marge, daughter Lauren and her friend Jackie at Guero's on S. Congress. Owner Rob Lipincott and his staff do a good job mixing the fun and food levels here. It's always packed. Even Bill Clinton loves it. (He used to have an enchilada dish sent out to Air Force One on the tarmac when he was in Austin). I love the Pork Tacos al Carbon. I smother them with queso and onions and have whole wheat tortillas. Lauren likes the fajitas and Marge got the shrimp enchiladas. Service was a bit on the zany side (we had one of those typically smart-ass Austin waiters who was a bit too full of himself) but other than that it was darned good.

Friday

Lunch is simple and delightful at Zen on S. Congress. The beauty of this place is that you can eat a lot of fresh, tasty food and not pay calorically for it. I had the Spicy Shrimp Bowl (the large version) with green onions and brown rice. Also had a California Roll smothered with soy and wasabi. Got carried away with the wasabi and had a mercurial moment of white-hot intensity (as can happen). Oh well, occupational hazard. Zen rocks. Great concept from owner Adam Weisberg.
'
Dinner on Friday night at Eddie V's downtown. This is a perennial favorite. Always packed when other restaurants are half empty. There's a reason. Owners Larry Foles and Guy Villavaso get it. Fresh seafood, great oysters, impeccable service, a fun bar with live music, and a comfy Austin vibe. My friend Augie Garrido loves this place. I think he has his own permanent chair.

I had the Snapper with Lumb Crab Meat and a burre blanc sauce. Great dish. Also the deep fried lobster tail. (they should offer drawn butter with it though. must make a note on that for the review). Marge had the sautéed Sole. She loves that dish as do I. And of course, a couple dozen Blue Point oysters. Our server was engaging and knew when to turn if off and on. Neat dinner, as always.

Saturday

Saturday I woke up craving Joe's Bakery on E. 7th. I get this craving periodically and I always give in to it. The Huevos Rancheros are just the bomb. Their ranchera sauce atop eggs over easy (they dip their bacon in flour and deep fry it) is my favorite. I totally loved this dish. Best Mexican breakfasts in Austin here. As far as the bakery, sorry, but it must be my gringo status. Everything kind of tastes the same. But their breakfasts and lunches are the best around in the genre. They also offer genuine menudo (foreign to most gringos) but beloved by many of Joe's patrons.

Saturday dinner is a big night in Austin. The downtown restaurants are packed. Places like Vespaio and Uchi are on two-hour waits. Sorry, but I wouldn't wait two hours for anything, except maybe a chance to have lunch with Albert Einstein. So we head over to W. 6th St. and Thai Tara, Yupa Rushing's great restaurant. There's always plenty of room there. Too bad because it's great. I don't think Austin really gets Thai cuisine and it's that's unfortunate. Yupa's curries are stunning and her Pad Kee Mao is wonderful. The Thai wings are unique and the cheese rolls are decadent. This place is one of the best kept secrets in the downtown area.

Sunday

Yeah it's pricey, but we join our children for brunch at the Cafe at the Four Seasons. This is without doubt the premier angolo brunch in the city (Fonda San Miguel is tops for the Mexican genre). They have sushi and pot stickers, wonderful salads, a lovely Eggs Benedict (I like mine with sausage patties) and a fulsome London Broil along with a myriad of interesting entrees. Elmar Prambs and sous chef German Villatoro (a member of my Ton 'o Fun team who lost 12 pounds) should be proud. The Cafe is nothing short of mesmerizing and the brunch is unrivaled.

Sunday evening, after a quick 18 holes at Barton Creek, Marge and I head over to Ciola's in Lakeway. Dan Ciola has a winner here and it's family affair. Son Tony is now at the helm along with great GM John Innes and their cousin is the chef. We start with the Bruschetta (pronounced Brus-ketta and don't give me any crap about that) which is excellent. The bread is crisp and that's the key. Then the Clams Ciola which are tiny and tasty. Then the Sausage and Peppers. Love this dish and the marinara sauce that goes with it. We both get the Penne with Shrimp and Vodka Sauce (whole wheat penne for me) and again, as usual, it's great. The flavor is really nuanced and it kind of unfolds on your palate. We finish with Ciola's homemade Spumoni (killer Italian ice cream ) and stumble out. And of course, we down a bottle of the '97 Brunello with dinner (Ciola's has won several Wine Spectator awards for its list).

Well, there's a week in the life. Some weeks vary but most weeks, unless I'm traveling on business, the routine is fairly comparable. Do we get tired of dining out so often? Hell no. We are fortunate to live in a town that offers a variety of so many outstanding restaurants.


Rob's Healthy Dining Recommendations: Goodbye Guilt!

As some of you may know, I've shed about 40 lbs over the past nine months. I've still got a long way to go but progress is being made.

One thing I've discovered in my weight loss journey is that I couldn't compromise my love of great flavors and tastes. Couldn't do endless low carbs and high proteins every night. So as a food critic, I had to look for places where the fare met my taste requirements yet still offered me a lower calorie alternative. Here are some of my favorite healthy-dining-but-still-has-good-taste restaurants. And for the most part, they are not vegan. They span the gamut of cultures and cuisines.

ZUZU: 5770 N. Mopac, Suite 500 Phone: 467-9295 www.zuzuaustin.com

Zuzu is a very cool Mexican restaurant that violates certain tex mex expectations. They don't use lard. They have killer (low fat) home made corn tortillas. They have great salads. Even their rice is cooked in a vegetable broth.
They have a grilled chicken dish (marinated in herbs and spices) that is moist, tender, and has seriously good taste. Served with their corn relish and roasted potatoes, this is a dish you could come back to without a lot of caloric repercussions. Zuzu offers delicious food without a lot of the caloric assaults so common in tex mex.

KORIENTE: 621 E. 7th St. (across from Courthouse) Phone: 275-0852 www.koriente.com

Koriente is a vintage mom and pop restaurant on E 7th that serves some of the tastiest and healthiest food around. The Kalbi Pot Roast is amazing. Tender and lean beef simmered in wine and fresh squeezed vegetable and apple juices. With carrots and Korean radish. Delicious and low in calories.

Another favorite is the Chicken Bulgogi With Brown Rice. This Korean form of BBQ chicken is amazingly tasty. With broccoli, it's low cal but with no flavor compromise.

Another killer dish that I often get is the Bulgogi Noodles. These are potato noodles tossed with strips of marinated beef and julienned vegetables. With a little soy, it makes a filling and low-fat lunch.
And try Nam's Chicken Soup. This is Korean penicillin at its best.

ZEN: Three locations at 1303 S. Congress; 2900 W. Anderson Lane; and 3423 N. Guadalupe. Web: www.eatzen.com

When I first started working on my weight last October, I began to visit Zen on S. Congress fairly regularly. Zen offers sensible dishes like the Spicy Shrimp Bowl where you get sautéed shrimp with white and green onions in a spicy sauce over brown rice. Delicious, low fat, and good for you.

Another favorite is the Oyako bowl. This features chicken sautéed with egg and white and green onions. Very tasty. And you can choose from a wide assortment of appetizers including Gyoza Dumplings, 7 Pepper Ahi Tuna (terrific flavor), Teriyaki Salmon Rolls, and the perpetually popular California Rolls. The service is fast and the prices are quite reasonable.

The cool thing is that at Zen you can get filled up without paying a heavy caloric penalty.

NU AGE: 2425 Exposition Boulevard. Phone: 469-9390 www.NuAgeCafe.com

Vegetarian restaurants are not establishments that, as a rule, I regularly frequent. However, Nu Age is a pleasant exception to the usual macrobiotic mush that one often encounters. Their dishes are creative, exceptionally tasty, and sophisticated. I am absolutely crazy about their Soy Cashew Sautee. This dish features a stunning medley of fresh vegetables along with cashews and brown rice.

Another killer dish is the Sizzling Soy. I lovingly refer to this as my Tofu Fajitas. It comes on a sizzling platter with carrots, onions, bean sprouts, broccoli, along with mashed sweet yams and raisins.

And I love the Garden Stir Fried Noodles. These are wheat noodles stir fried with celery, carrots, cabbage, snow peas, bean sprouts, onions, mushrooms and broccoli in an Oriental style brown sauce. Low fat with a huge flavor component.


The Verdict on Tipping at Fast Casual Places is in: Feedback from our Readers

We got a huge number of responses from readers on the issue of tipping at fast casual restaurants. (Where the customer goes to a board and orders and the food is brought out later.)

Responses ranged from Danny in Austin who said he didn’t tip at all because the workers at these places make more than the usual $2.13 per hour than waiters who work in spots where the tips are the main source of revenue. (Don’t know what they actually make.) But Danny’s response was not the predominant one.

Nor was the response from Frankie in Marble Falls who suggested that if the wait person showed up at his table at all, he would start at 15% and go up.

The majority of respondents said they would tip anywhere from $1-$4 depending on the perceived effort of the wait person. Some said a dollar per diner or somewhat more if drink refills were offered, etc. But generally, it came down to perceived value. And most of you felt that service people in a fast casual environment did relatively little to enhance the comfort and convenience of the customer.

But it’s safe to say that there is, without question, a different (and lower) set of standards that most Austin diners employ when tipping at fast casual places.


Breakfast Recommendations

Breakfast, if one is to believe the diet gurus, is the most important meal of the day. Our metabolism is the lowest in the morning, and a good breakfast jump-starts our bodies' internal fat-burning mechanisms. So they say.

For me, I've always just flat out liked the entire idea of breakfast. And especially breakfast on the weekends, when you can hunker down with the paper, a cup of coffee, and just kind of let the morning unfold as you nosh on your favorite vittles.

With that in mind, I've prepared a list of my favorite breakfast joints. We move back and forth from the posh Four Seasons to the just-folks appeal of Joe's Bakery. The key is, décor and ambiance notwithstanding, who puts out a consistently good breakfast? Here, in no particular order, are my favorite spots for breakfast.

1. Arkie's. I love breakfast joints. And Arkie's qualifies. Open since 1948 and located way out on East 1st St., Arkie's is the kind of chat and chew place where the regulars don't ever have to be asked what they'll order. The breakfast tacos are flat out terrific and the omelets are soft and very tasty. Don't
worry, first timers are more than welcome..

2. Café at the Four Seasons on Cesar Chavez.. The Blueberry Waffles with sausage are to die for. For the health conscious, a terrific frittata. And this is a good spot for the power breakfast. Excellent coffee and croissants.

3. Joe's Bakery on E 7th. In my humble opinion, the best huevos rancheros in the city. They take the bacon, dip it in flour, and fry it to create sheer bliss. The ranchera sauce is a killer: sweet, piquant, and mellow, all at the same time. For Menudo fans (not the rock group) also highly recommended.

4. Katz's Deli on 6th St. Who says that beef bacon can't be just great? So what if it's kosher? It rocks! As do their egg dishes, locks and bagels: all are quite good. I love the cheese and onion omelet. Ditto for the potato pancakes. And the cherry blintzes are just what the doctor ordered. Oh, and did I mention that they never close?

5. Magnolia Café. (Two locations on S. Congress and Lake Austin Boulevard.) The décor is kind of cheesy, but the food eats pretty darned good. I love the Martian Landscapes (home fries, jalapenos, and cheese). And the Popeye Omelet. One of the few places that serves up whole-wheat tortillas. The pancakes are always terrific.

6. Dan's. Long revered for its cheeseburgers and fries, Dan's always dishes up tasty breakfasts. From omelets to eggs over easy, the hash browns are never greasy and the breakfast meats are excellent. The biscuits and gravy should also not be overlooked. Be prepared for a wait on weekends.

7. Whole Foods on N. Lamar. I have long been addicted to their breakfast tacos. You order up what you want from a wide variety of fresh and tasty choices. Then you can hunker over to the bakery and grab a fresh croissant and enjoy it all over a cup of coffee. This is also a good chance to catch up on the alternative publications you've been missing.

8. Juan in a Million on East Cesar Chavez. If nothing else, go to meet the irrepressible Juan Meza.. A former school teacher, this guy is the Tony Robbins of Tex Mex. A bear hug, a nuclear hand shake, and somehow you feel better. It doesn't hurt that the breakfast tacos, especially the Machacado or the Chorizo with potato, are excellent. The migas are also first rate.

9. Fonda San Miguel on 2330 W. North Loop Boulevard. Hands down, the best Sunday brunch in Austin. I have to have my Fonda "fix" about every four-five weeks or I become unruly and dangerous.

10. Upper Crust Bakery. 4508 Burnet. I love this place. They have the best schnecken [made with Danish dough, cinnamon suger, pecans, currants and then baked and glazed with an apricot glaze]. Monday-Friday open at 6:30 AM. Great place to nosh and sip coffee. Fantastic cheese soup as well: good enough, in fact, to have for breakfast.

11. El Sol y La Luna on S. Congress just south of the School for the Deaf. Try the Heuevos Mexicana and the Migas. (Especially fond of the migas con chorizo.) Great place for lingering and people watching.

12. Waterloo Ice House. There are two key words that characterize the breakfast dishes at Waterloo: tasty and fresh. Five Austin Locations.


A New Dilemma: Tipping At Fast Casual Restaurants

OK. You thought you had tipping at conventional restaurants figured out. 15% if average, 18%, if above average, 20% if really good, 25% if outstanding, etc. Many don’t tip after the first $100 of wine. And some don’t tip on wine after the first $50.

But the rapid rise of fast casual places has all of us in a dilemma.

You stand and peruse the menu as you walk in. You place your order. You pick up some silverware and grab yourself a table. And eventually, someone brings out your food. So, how much do you tip?

Managers at fast casual restaurants we talked to, from Pei Wei to Masala Wok said that tipping is wildly inconsistent. Some leave nothing and some leave quite a lot.

Here’s my question to you readers... What are your tipping practices and philosophies at fast casual restaurants? Click on the link to respond and we’ll highlight your answers in a future column.


City Sees a Surge in Private Dining Options

Over the years, most major Austin restaurants have usually always reserve a private dining area. That’s been fairly common. But what is a much newer trend is for restaurants like Chez Zee and Banderas to build adjacent facilities for private dining, and in the case of Sicola’s: A Culinary Experience, to rebuild the former Café Spiazzo into a facility that is dedicated exclusively to private dining.

The rise in private dining goes hand in hand with an improved local economy. Corporate luncheons, dinners and parties are coming back (albeit not as lavishly in the dot com loaded late 90’s) and along with private parties, anniversary and wedding celebrations fuel the majority of the bookings. But there are also a growing number of gourmet dining and wine clubs throughout the city (one of my favorites is the Women of Wine and the Men who Adore Them). One of the first of these was our Gonzo Gourmet Club. In fact, the Gonzo club has given birth to a number of smaller wine and gourmet clubs. And not all the cooking is done at home.

Stephen Sicola, chef and co-owner of Sicola’s: A Culinary Experience is a fine example of the trend toward private dining. A CIA trained expert craftsman who five years ago might have been helming a cutting edge restaurant open to the public, he has instead opted to concoct his gourmet delights for private groups from eight to eighty. Sicola’s, like Chez Zee and Banderas will also cater.

For more information, hit this link for MENUS and scroll down to PRIVATE DINING.


Five Cool Memorial Day Weekend Restaurants

Five Cool Places to Eat and Drink and Listen over the Memorial Day weekend.

1. Zax Pints and Plates. [481-0100]

Fun little eaterie at corner of Barton Springs and Riverside. I really like this place. Great sandwiches and a killer tortilla soup, lots of micro brews, and it's adjacent to the volleyball courts behind Aussie's.

2. Ski Shores Waterfront Grill [346-5915]

Can't beat the setting or the food. Burgers, catfish, and more in an idyllic setting on Lake Austin. We love the Jalapeno Burger. Take City Park Road off 2222 and drive for a while. But you will enjoy.

3. Carlos and Charlie's. [266-1683]

Perched right on Lake Travis, Carlos and Charlie's has seriously upgraded the quality of food and makes for a fun place to party over the weekend. Sunday, music will be provided by Matt While,
Casey McPherson and Damesviolet. These are all local Austin bands and cover is only $5.

4. Lucy's Boatyard. [651-0505]

Burger and pizza joint brought to you by the folks who own Chuy's and Hula Hut. It's a fun scene The new sky deck is open which has its own kitchen and a killer view of the lake. Hint: for all you boaters who motor up to the place, make sure your batteries are charged. We don't want anyone else drifting over the dam..

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