2009 Restaurant Year in Review
Austin was not exempted from the national malaise that swept across the restaurant industry in 2009. But we were in high cotton compared to other cities like Miami, Las Vegas, Providence, Rhode Island or even Los Angeles. Dining in those cities and many others was down over 40% from 2008. Let’s just say this: I sure as hell would not have wanted to go into the restaurant business anyplace outside of Texas last year.
That being said, 2009 was one of the most uneven years our city has seen since 2001. Restaurants one would have expected to succeed failed and vice versa. There was very little sense to be made of this past year, and believe me, I’ve tried.
I think in many ways that 2009 could be dubbed “The Year of The Trailer”. Virtually everywhere one looked, silver trailers sprang up on roadside corners all over town and especially south of the river. They pitched everything from cup cakes to Vietnamese sandwiches to veggie fare and subs and hot dogs. Of course the operative phrase here is “low overhead”. And what better town than Austin to launch something on the quirky side? Ambience can easily be overlooked when the price point is $2-3 lower than at a conventional restaurant. And I must admit most of the trailer fare that I’ve sampled has been damn good. Lulu B’s (Vietnamese sandwiches) on South Lamar is probably my favorite of the bunch with Hey Cupcake and Jeff Blank’s The Mighty Cone (both located in the South Congress trailer lot) coming in second. And you’ve got to love Flip Happy Crepes on Jessie St. And how could we not mention Torchy’s Tacos or Deli Fresh on Barton Springs? But in truth, they’re all good. And they just seem to fit this town like a nice warm glove.
As for the more conventional restaurants, it was a year of survival of the fittest. But even the downtown area didn’t really see the anticipated benefit from the massive high-rise condo boom of the past two years. Eddie V’s, a perennial favorite seemed to keep pace as did the Roaring Fork and McCormick and Schmick’s. High end sushi joint Uchi also seemed to be perpetually jammed. And the excellent III Forks bucked the tide of slower sales among restaurants with higher price points. And Taverna seemed to benefit more from its location at 2nd and Lavaca than from its than from its cuisine (in my humble opinion) but it seemed fairly busy. And the hotel restaurants likewise seemed less busy. The always reliable Driskill Grill has had a revolving door of chefs since the departures of David Bull and Josh Watkins. Finn and Porter at the Hilton also seemed slower as did Trio at the Four Seasons Hotel. Of all of these, Trio is, in my opinion, the best restaurant of this group. Uber Chef Elmar Prambs guided the former Café at the Four Seasons through its transition to Trio. They deserve to be packed every night yet they aren’t! Perhaps it’s the serious competition from new steakhouses like Perry’s which opened strongly and hasn’t slowed down. Of course, Austin seems to have an insatiable appetite for steakhouses. One wonders how many more can open until the scales tip in the negative direction.
Like the aforementioned Perry’s, the restaurants that opened in 2009 were a diverse bunch. One wonders where they got the financing, because it sure wasn’t from any local banks. Karibu, an Ethiopian restaurant on E. 7th opened in January. The key to this healthy cuisine is the famous gluten-free bread Injera which also serves as an eating utensil and a kind of table cloth upon which the foods are served. The table cloth soaks up the flavors and is then eaten, signaling the conclusion of the meal!
Tony C’s was another newcomer out at the Galleria in S. Austin. The first pizzeria in Austin with a coal-fired oven, this brought me back to my native New Haven, Ct. The coal-fired oven is the definitive way to make Neapolitan style apizzza and Tony C’s has made great strides on a difficult learning curve.
Also opening at the Shops at the Galleria across the street this year was a new branch of Waterloo Icehouse. This was their first franchised location and is operated by Vir Singh, owner of the Star of India and several local hotels. And next to Waterloo is the new location of Mandola’s Italian Market, a replication of the successful Triangle store opened several years earlier. The owner is Damian Mandola, well-known for his involvement in the Carraba’s chain as well as his role in the PBS show Cocina Amore. He’s a fun guy and also the first Italian I’ve ever met who has a genuine Texas accent.
Fleming’s Steakhouse, one of my favorites, also opened a new store at the Domain in N. Austin. Operating partner Reuben Rolf is a great operator as is his counterpart Daryl at the downtown store.
And Mighty Fine Burgers, another success story from the Austin operators of Rudy’s BBQ, opened two new stores, one off Brodie Lane and one in Round Rock off Exit 256. Every time I enter a Mighty Fine I am amazed at the precision with which the places are run. Of course, the burgers and fresh cut crinkle fries and the shakes are great as well.
Also on the burger front, the popular P.Terry’s opened a second location on William Cannon at Mopac. And those organic-but-it-tastes-good guys, Terra Burgers, opened a second location on 10611 Research. And a chain from Virginia came in called 5 Guys Burgers and opened to good reviews at 3208 Guadalupe. I concur. They are easily in the top twenty in Austin, which considering the dozens of burger joints we have, is saying something.
Speaking of downtown, the irrepressible Ronald Cheng opened a second location of his popular Chinatown restaurant on W. 5th in Austin. Next to Kenichi, it formerly housed Jeff Liu’s Noodleism and for a brief moment or two, an Italian restaurant. If anyone can make this place work it’s Cheng, who is a born marketer as well as a splendid chef.
And the popular el Sol y la Luna, a staple for years on South Congress moved to 600 E. 6th St. Nilda de la Lata is the primary owner and a great and talented business woman. Let’s hope she can hit a home run at this difficult location.
Another downtown opening that I’ve gotten a real kick out of is Max’s Wine Dive at 3rd and San Jacinto. Modeled after the charter restaurant in Houston, Max’s is a light-hearted comfort food meets champagne and wine bar concept. And so far so good. I love their fried chicken. That’s right! Real bone-in fried chicken. Brian O’Neill (formerly of the Belmont) is at the GM’s helm, and he knows how to run a restaurant.
The space at South Congress formerly occupied by Mars was given new life by the opening of Perla’s (oyster in Spanish). 26-year-old wunderkind Larry McGuire (Lambert’s BBQ) is in the kitchen and this place rocketed into my Top 20 at record speed. The crab dishes are incredible. Even that old curmudgeon John Mariani of Esquire liked it, and he rarely likes anything!!!
David Garrido, former chef of Jeffrey’s both in Austin and in Washington, D.C. was back with Garrido’s, an upscale taqueria at 3rd and Nueces. What I like about David is that his work has incredible nuance for relatively straight forward fare. The flavor blends are amazing. And next to Garrido’s is Mullberry’s, an upscale wine bar and restaurant with a upper New York west side vibe. The owner is a New Yorker turned Austinite. The word so far is “excellent”.
Also opening downtown is Piranha Killer Sushi next to Max’s Wine Dive. I love the name and I got a huge laugh when I discovered that the master chef was Latino. That’s got to be a first for Austin. But the guy can flat out bring it!! Asian ancestry is obviously not a prerequisite for making killer sushi. While we have many Korean, Chinese, and Thai sushi chefs in Austin aside from the Japanese ones, and of course the famous Anglo guy Tyson Cole, is this a sign of things to come. “Me gusto sushi!!!”
On the French front (sorely needed), two alums of Chez Nous opened Justine’s on E. 5th. Pierre Pellegrin and his wife Justine are running this spot that seems to have hit the ground running. Good for them, and for us!
And given that Austin is most definitely “underdogged,” I’m glad to see Frank open on Colorado at the site of the former Starlite. This is all about dogs of all shapes and sizes. And don’t forget the marvelous putane, wonderful fires smothered in brown gravy and cheese curd. I love this place!
A number of other openings dotted the suburban landscape as well. Jack Allen’s Kitchen, helmed by Chef Jack Gilmore opened out in Oak Hill at the site of the former Y Bar and Grill, Nunnzia’s, and Senoritas. My first lunch there was terrific. Jack made Z Tejas run beautifully for many years and I wish him well in this tough location. And up the street past the Y on 290, two new restaurants opened. Cartwright’s Famous BBQ (love their sausage) and actually in Dripping Springs, a very neat little Bistro called Creek Road Café. Creek Road is the best thing to hit DS in years and I’m very buzzed about the upscale comfort food menu. And Davis Tucker, proprietor of the popular North by Northwest has opened a new spot on South Lamar called Red’s Porch. This has a killer view of Barton Springs. They are tucked behind Citibank so don’t pass it by. First indications are very tasty.
Also the popular Vivo from Manor Road (great homemade tex mex) has opened a second location at Lakeline Mall on 12233 Highway 620. If this is as good as their first location and they still serve those puffy tacos with the wonderful proprietary family sauces, then I’m there. Call 331-4660.
Lakeway saw several new openings in 2009. Mizu on Highway 620 is a Streak, Seafood and Sushi concept with an absolutely breathtaking view. This is a beautiful physical location with seriously cool dining opportunities.
And down the street, virtually across from each other were Non La and Mangieri’s Pizza. The former is a very tasty Thai, Vietnamese and Sushi by the former owner of the popular Mekong River on 6th St. I love the Pho here and the pad dishes as well. Mangieri’s is the second Austin restaurant for Piper and Tony Mangieri. It’s a family joint, perfect for bringing the kids and just letting things hang out. Their whole wheat crust is excellent and something I get when I order “The Sicilian”. Also opening in Lakeway near the Rough Hollow Yacht Club is the Grille at Rough Hollow. This is a fine restaurant with upscale food at moderate prices. Shane Street is the consummate manager and the kitchen is in great hands under the helm of the former exec chef from the aforementioned Perry’s. If nothing else, have a cocktail on the deck and soak in the view.
Out at Parmer and IH 35 N is a spot that marks the triumphant return of Micheal and Yoli Amr and their Mama Roux. Michael and Yoli are the icons of Cajun food in Austin and were the founders of the original Gumbo’s on Bratton Land. Their Crawfish Etouffee is as good as ever and the gumbo has a wonderful, mild roux.
Out in Georgetown, we saw the opening of Silver and Stone, helmed by James Ramsey. This guy is a very talented chef and I hope this place works. It’s on the 4th floor of an office building located directly across from the relocated Monument Café. S&S has a wonderful wine list, perhaps one of the best in the area.
And down in Gruene, at the Canyon Lake exit off IH 35 S, is a new restaurant called the Gruene Door. Owner Michael Flume is a builder and developer by trade and he built this restaurant to the cornerstone of his new mixed usage site. The results thus far are very impressive. Gruene Door, for a relatively new restaurant, offers something not seen in this area before. Really quality food that rivals the downtown restaurants at suburban prices. If nothing else, try the Duck Gumbo. Ohh la la!
And in Round Rock, Pizzeria Corvina, the second coal fired pizza in the area opened its doors and I must, the place was on target from day 1. Their pasta dishes are excellent also. This place greatly enhanced the appeal of Round Rock as a dining destination. Take Exit 250 off I35 N and bear right. It’s just to the right in the first shopping center. And also in Round Rock, a different Pizza concept opened called Promise Pizza. They are on AW Grimes Bld and offer organic and gluten free pizzas. The key is, the pies actually tastes pretty damned good. And rumor has it that they are looking for a second downtown location.
Closings
Perhaps the saddest side of this piece is the listing of restaurants that opened and closed within the same year. Yu Sushi Izagaya on Colorado was one of the casualties. I thought their maki was excellent as was just about everything else there. But they just couldn’t gain traction and closed within 7-months. Very sad. Another casualty was Yume at the Triangle. Loved their fusion concept of Caribbean and Japanese. But alas, about three days after I reviewed the restaurant on FOX 7 and KLBJ radio, they closed their doors. Very sad indeed, and a bit embarrassing for yours truly.
Then came the excellent Mars on South Congress (which now houses Perlas). They had thrived for years over at 17th and San Antonio but she moved to So Co. with all its attendant price increases was a bit much for the owner and she had to close the doors.
Brenda and Billy McGowan, proprietors of the popular Ms. B’s locations had to close both stores in 2009. Brenda ran afoul of the city of Austin’s regentrification plan for E. 11th St. and was hit for thousands of dollars in unanticipated rent surcharges which she could not pay. Again, a very sorry case.
Another unfortunate passing was the legendary Grapevine Market off Anderson Lane. I was playing golf with owner Bob Tomagen when he scratched the idea down on a napkin while we were waiting to tee off on *7 at Barton Creek’s Fazio course. He asked if I thought Austin was ready for such an upscale wine concept and I thought that it was. And it debuted to rave reviews and quickly developed a loyal audience and uber wine consultants like Greg Steiner. But alas, Tomagen was killed in place crash several years ago, the concept was sold, and it was never the same after that. Luckily for us, Twin Liquors has stepped into the void with their major stores at Hancock Center and the Galleria.
I ran into Howard and Claudia Kells at a Perrier Jouet tasting the other night and I was reminded how much I missed their Latin Café. Formerly Dona Emilia’s on Cesar Chavez across from the Four Seasons, this place had some dishes, like the Eva Longoria pasta, that were to die for. Great arroz con pollo as well as many classic Colombian dishes.
Down the street, Taste Select Wines suffered a similar fate. Opened by two yonng couples, they had a chef from the famous Craft in New York and man could this guy cook. His charcuterie was amazing and the BLT Panini was out of this world. You could also sample quality wines by the pour for a fraction of the cost of opening a $200 bottle. But Taste was victimized by the seemingly endless construction on that street for virtually the entire year. We actually tried to go there on a Saturday night and the city had the entire street blocked off because of construction. Are you kidding me? On a Saturday night, the busiest night of the week for most restaurants. Why not schedule the work for Sunday morning?????
And one of Austin’s most beloved sandwich joints, the Kitchen Door closed both locations. Another stunning event was the demise of Gypsy on Barton Springs Rd. Owner Shawn Gamble had lived all over Italy and his food reflected it. I am stunned that the adjacent Vinny’s Italian Cave lives on and the very nice Gypsy had to close.
2009 was not a good year for Oak Hill. Spanish style Segovia crashed and burned after finally producing a really decent paella. And Nunnzia and Senoritas down the street proved that housing two disparate restaurants in one building is probably not a very good idea. I actually kind of liked Senoritas.
And one of my favorite Lebanese delis on I 35 at Parmer closed. Byblos was an excellent little joint. Their shawarma was the bomb. I guess they should have included some BBQ on their menu. After all, this is Texas.
And the continuing problems on the building across from the square in Georgetown saw the relatively quick demise of the 2nd location of Romeo’s. The place has also housed the unfortunate Monica’s 701.
Well, there you have it. An uneven year at best for Austin as noted earlier. But one key point on the optimism front: the openings outnumbered the closings. If we can slog our way through 2010, things should measurably improve.
And on a personal note, my almost 11-year affiliation with FOX 7 TV came to an end on Dec. 18th of this year. And that’s OK with me. It was a great run and an eternity in the land of TV where longevity is measured in months, not years.. I am talking to other TV stations as we speak, am still deeply involved with KLBJ radio, and our web site continues to grow bigger and better. And look forward to our new Podcasts scheduled to begin on the site in Janaury of 2010.
I’ll keep you posted on diningoutwithrobbalon.com. And feel free to email me with any suggestions for restaurants I might have missed, either in the openings or closings section.
Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to you all!
