A Culinary Reason to Head to San Antonio: Sumo

Sumo – Brad Meltzer

The owner is Austinite Brad Meltzer who, from a long association with Benihana founder Rocky Aioki, learned the ropes of this fun and tasty dining style. Sumo has absolutely nothing to do with Benihana, and that’s probably for the better as the corporate side has splintered from the original family owners. Meltzer’s redecoration is warm and inviting, and his grill chefs are a riot. The place is big with 20 grill stations and also has a sushi/sashimi bar in the center.

We sat at a table near the back and I immediately noticed the difference. The miso soup at most Tepanyaki joints is a throwaway: usually bland and with too much ginger. The miso soup at Sumo was flat-out delicious: rich with flavor. And the Calamari was very tasty as were the Gyoza.

We also feasted on grilled lobster, shrimp and chateaubriand, along with the exceptionally tasty vegetable fried rice.

Everyone expects a show at a Tepanyaki restaurant. But our chef’s was over the top. The flaming onion volcano was just the beginning. He went on with a variety of clever knife and spatula moves with a pyromaniac’s delight at the end. Flaming salt and pepper shakers danced in the air as their lights were lowered. He finished with a behind the back pass of the flaming shakers, and then an around and over his head pass. Our table went nuts.

This is not a full review by any means. Just an introduction to a place I suspect we’ll be going back to. There is simply nothing in Austin like it. The complete and more detailed review will follow in time, but I wanted to make all Austin foodies aware of this neat new dining option south of our border.