An American Success Story: Francisco Cortez and Santa Catarina

Francisco Cortez

But the most fascinating aspect of Santa Catarina is the back story of the man at the helm, Francisco Cortez. He began his lifelong passion for great Mexican food working for his grandmother who used to cater weddings in central Mexico. Francisco realized at an early age that his future in food was in the United States. So he made his way to Austin, and got his first job at the then nascent Fonda San Miguel working for Tom Gilliland and Miguel Ravago. A chance meeting with Greg and Ahmad from Manuel’s led to an initial job washing dishes. That was 26 years ago!

Francisco worked his way up to manager, then GM, and then executive chef. He faithfully renewed his green card every ten years, and finally achieved US citizenship a few years ago. Along the way he raised a family, and now he and his wife have four children, the oldest of whom is studying at UT. His goal had always been to open his own place, and with Hula Hut’s Andy Norton and his cousin Jesus, he finally opened Santa Catarina.

It’s no surprise that dishes at Santa Catarina are so amazingly full of rich flavors. They exude the passion of the owner. I asked him about his two favorite dishes and unhesitatingly said, the Mole Rojo and the Cochinita Pibil. His preparation of each is painstaking, down to the most minute spice or the slightest hint of pepper. He doesn’t just create these dishes, he owns them with an abiding sense of care and yes, almost love. And that’s what sets Santa Catarina apart.

I asked him how he hires people for his restaurant, and that revealed yet another facet of the man’s character. “I tell them to treat this place like their home,” he said. “Our customers are our guests, our friends, and they should be treated as such.” “Don’t take this job if you just want money: that will come if you treat people with respect.” How true!

Everything at Santa Catarina is unique, like Francisco himself. They have a jalapeno cream dip that is so good, I literally take it home by the quart. The recipe? Not written down at all. Just part of Francisco’s impressive storehouse of creativity. He treats his margaritas the same way. No sugar, just agave nectar. And he personally oversees each dish, from it’s conception to the roll out. Think that doesn’t resonate with his loyal customers?

He has his eyes on a Santa Catarina II. And por que no? This guy is one of the originals. Hard work, integrity, honesty, creativity and an unabiding passion for every aspect of his restaurant. I predict big things for Francisco Cortez. Let’s just hope this 2nd one doesn’t take another 26 years.

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