Another Austin Original: Margarito Maldonado

Think about how many restaurants in Austin have opened within the past 10 years. Then, regrettably think about all of those that have closed in the same time span (way more than you might think). So when you reach the point when your place is celebrating a 10th anniversary, you have really accomplished something. Margarito Maldonado’s Los Pinos celebrates its 10th on Saturday, January 24th.

That’s a good story in and of itself. But there’s a much deeper layer to this one. Margarito has been cooking for years around the Austin area. But until he opened Los Pinos (on Hudson Bend Blvd. and several years later on Bee Caves) he had not worked the Tex Mex circuit. Instead he worked at more upscale casual places like Z’Tejas and then later, for eight more years under Michael Vilim at the former Mirabelle. He created many new dishes at Mirabelle, most of which had a decidedly Parisian influence. So how did this lead to Los Pinos?

It was simple really. Margarito reached back to family culinary traditions, and then used his training to create one of the more unique Mexican restaurants in the area. I was unaware of his background when I first tried Los Pinos. But upon my initial tasting of the Tortilla Soup and then the Carnitas, I realized I had found something special. Margarito prepares Mexican dishes, and some Tex Mex as well, but with the deft touch of a classically trained European chef. Nothing is really traditional at Los Pinos, but rather interpretations of time-honored dishes as seen through his creative vision. And what a lens he has.

Rabid Tex Mex fans may not appreciate Los Pinos as much, but that’s a mistake. Margarito does not do any disservice whatsoever to the genre. He simply enhances and embellishes it a bit. The Queso Especial is a good example of that. No white cheese to be seen, but the standard stuff in the hands of a master. Makes a big difference on who is in the kitchen. There is a version of Queso with Jack cheese for those wish to try it, but I stick with the Especial.

I could go on, and I will. The Carnitas have always been a favorite. Crispy morsels of pork as one would expect, but then the 2nd and 3rd layers of flavor kick in. Perhaps it’s the marinade of Orange Juice and fresh spices. But then again, that’s Margarito. Another great example is the Beef in Chipotle Cream Sauce. The dish starts with sauteed fajita beef, and then a lovely chipotle cream sauce along with mushrooms and corn. The first rush of flavor is amazing.

Aside from being a force in the kitchen, Margarito like so many successful restaurateurs, has had his share of adversity. A fire leveled most of the Hudson Bend store for six months several years ago. But he served tacos from a trailer while the rebuild was underway (not unlike Beau Theriot after the fire at the Oasis). And soon enough, Los Pinos was rocking the area once again. He expanded a few years later to a location off Bee Caves that had unsuccessfully housed Bee Caves Bistro, Zoot, and several others. But like Jack Gillmore at Jack Allen’s Kitchen, he turned the proverbial lemons into lemonade.

On top of all that, he’s a nice guy. I happened to be there late one night at the Hundson Bend location when a long-time employee was leaving. What a spontaneous celebration erupted: employees coating the departing worker and then themselves with flour, water, and God knows what else. Where was Margarito? Right in the middle of the fray. It goes to who he is and what his places are all about. He is truly an Austin original.

(Check out Rob’s Podcast with Margarito Maldonado‘s from October)