Austin BBQ Wars: First Edition

Let’s clear up one thing before we begin: the BBQ in and around the Austin area is without question the country’s best. Forget Memphis, Kansas City, the Carolinas and other over-hyped BBQ meccas. We have it hands down here in Austin, Elgin, Lockhart and the Hill Country. Now that we’ve got that out of the way, let’s talk about some of my favorite area joints for Q!

Franklin BBQ

Let’s start with the more recent developments. I don’t suppose we can begin this discussion without a brief nod to Aaron Franklin’s trailer-to-restaurant phenomenon on E. 11th St. The brisket has received national attention and has been rated #1 in the nation by Bon Appetit, a mind-boggling achievement for Franklin who just a few short years ago was working for John Mueller. His restaurant has at least a 1.5hr wait on a daily basis and has legions of fans. Some clever souls have even taken to phoning in to go orders two days ahead and then picking them up at 10:30am before the insanity begins anew.

I’ve had the fatty brisket and the pork ribs, and I must say the ribs are mind-blowingly good, in a class by themselves. The brisket is also quite good, but I would not rank it ahead of the moist brisket at Rudy’s which continues to be my favorite. That being said, I wouldn’t wait an hour and a half to see the Pope, let alone for some BBQ. But Austin is a city where people seem to enjoy the queue. They’ll get their wish and some great chow at Franklin’s.

And John Mueller is back in a little trailer on 1502 South 1st. And he is at the top of his considerable form. This guy turns ribs, brisket, and sausage into symphonic movements of taste. I suspect another brick and mortar venture (remember Manor Rd. and then Bastrop???) is near. Mueller comes from BBQ royalty and, like Tyson Cole mentored Uchiko’s award-winning Paul Qui, Mueller also had a hand in Aaron Franklin’s career.

Stiles Switch BBQ and Brew on North Lamar has gotten a lot of attention as well in the recent explosion of new places. I think their sausage is very good, and the sides are excellent. Not so crazy about the brisket which I found to be a bit dry. But this place has lots of promise.

Live Oak Barbecue on E. 2nd is a nothing-fancy kind of joint that is also packing them. They answer the phone here saying, “Live Oak, I love You.” I wouldn’t say I love Live Oak but I will say it’s pretty damned good. Pit master Tom Spaulding is a freakishly dedicated to the art of CUE, and he has a lot of talent and some loyal fans as well.

So these are the newer spots but there are literally dozens of joints around the Hill Country that need to be mentioned. Let’s start with the aforementioned Rudy’s. And I’m talking about the Austin-area stores which are separately owned. I am addicted to their moist brisket which offers up bit after bite of perfectly smoked and tender, lip smacking flavors. They even managed to dig up a study from Texas A&M which purportedly found said brisket to be heart healthy! The pork loin is also excellent and their sausage, when the casings are properly firing, is hugely tasty. And what’s not to like about the creamed corn, which is almost a must order. I am also a big fan of the iconic County Line. I had my first beef rib there and in my opinion, they kill the market in this category. The ribs are big old pieces of smoked love. Finish what you can, and your dog will love forever if you bring home the leftovers. Love the store on the hill in Westlake.

And then there’s the equally iconic Salt Lick in Driftwood which utterly annihilates the notion that “location” is everything in the restaurant business. I love their sausage and the Baby Backs (a disservice to only offer them on Sunday) and the cole slaw is perhaps tops among all BBQ joints. It’s in the middle of nowhere and its packed most nights. They’re even making their own wine now. The location dates back to 1969.

Downtown on Red River at Cesar Chavez the Iron Works has been around for some time. Be ready for a sweaty good time as the place has no AC. I really like the both the Beef and Pork Ribs and the pork loin. Brisket is just average in my opinion. But this place has stood the test of time.

Another spot that often gets overlooked (a serious mistake) is Ruby’s on Guadalupe. The chopped beef is one of my favorites and while it should not be confused with Rudy’s (a common error), it’s been a staple on West Campus for many moons.

PoK-e-Jo’s is a locally-owned chain with multiple locations around town. I love their pork ribs and their moist brisket. Not as crazy about their sausage. And for the most part, like Rudy’s, they have terrific sides. Smoked chicken is also very good. Perhaps one of the few local BBQ joints where a vegan can piece together a meal.

The Green Mesquite on Barton Springs and out in Southpark Meadows cranks out some good cue as well. I can’t say no to their pulled pork or BBQ sandwiches. They even survived a drunk driver who was so stoked for some CUE that he forgot to get out of his car and drove through the front window instead. Luckily it was at 4am.

Out in Lakeway, Buster’s has been in a few different locations but they’ve stood the test of time. I like the Garlic Bomb (a pork shoulder stuffed with fresh garlic) and I really like their “famous” chicken thighs. These are absolutely irresistible. The husband and wife owners are fun folks as well. Also on the Lake adjacent to the Oasis and near downtown on Barton Springs is the colorful Uncle Billy’s Brew and Cue. Their cue is decent (I like the sausage n’ cheese) but it’s the presence of legendary brew master Brian Peters that elevates this place. His local brews are spot on and his IPA is to die for!

And heading toward Marble Falls up Highway 71 is the equally interesting Opie’s. They’ve gone to a larger location and have some devoted fans including my friend Kondo. I love their sausage (great flavors and textures) and their exquisite butter beans live up to the billing. The moist brisket however was a tad disappointing. I found it to be on the dry side and surprisingly, needing an infusion of salt.

Coming Next: Lockhart, Elgin, Luling, Llano and other Central Texas BBQ legends like Snow’s in Lexington.