Best New Austin Restaurant in the Past Year: Jack Allen’s Kitchen and Highlights on Runners-Up
We have, with pleasure, named Jack Allen’s Kitchen in Oak Hill as the best new Austin restaurant of the past year.
Actually, it’s a little more than a year but who’s counting? When this restaurant debuted at the spot where so many others (Jean’s Pierre’s, The Y Bar and Grill, Nunnzia’s, Senorita’s, et al.) had failed, many questioned Chef Jack Gilmore’s choice of locations. But I never once questioned his inestimable talent for pleasing customers. He’d demonstrated that for years at Z Tejas.
So when Jack Allen’s Kitchen began going on waits on weeknights (something that in my memory had never happened in Oak Hill) I was not surprised. When it comes to upscale comfort food, the guy is that good. There’s never a night when I drive by that the parking lot is not virtually full. Why, because everything on the menu rocks. From the amazing guacamole to the incredible soups and salads and on to the burgers, the ribs, the fish tacos, and the best sweet potato French fries in Austin, the menu here just flat out pleases: and does so on a consistent basis.
Best new restaurant? Damned straight!
Ruuners Up to Jack Allen’s Kitchen
Jack Allen’s won best new restaurant not just because the food is superb but for the remarkable transformation of a totally moribund location into what has become a sensation in Oak Hill. But there were several restaurants to which we gave serious consideration. They are listed below. Criteria: had to have been opened for at least a year.
Max’s Wine Dive at 3rd and San Jacinto has been a real find. They have reinvented the art of gourmet bone-in fried chicken. Chef J.P Lacoste and his award-winning sous chef Erika Beneke (Chef’s Under Fire) are marching to the reintroduced retro classics drumbeat that Max’s has inspired. I understand they are considering bringing back Lobster Thermidor–which I haven’t had in years–and I think the idea is superb. We had our most recent Gonzo Gourmet Club dinner at Max’s and it was sensational. If you haven’t tried this place, go now!
Perla’s on South Congress has moved into our Top 20. The word means “oyster” in Spanish and the name’s appropriate. The seafood dishes rock! Beautiful soft-shell crab sandwich, glorious fish dishes everyday, and icy cold oysters. They’ve even attempted a Maine Lobster roll. (Hint: hold the mayo and just use butter.) But you have to credit young chef Larry McGuire for rolling the dice here and pulling it off.
Steiner Ranch Steakhouse on Highway 620 near Lakeway was another strong candidate. This partnership between the Steiner family and Texas restaurateur Don Burdett has blossomed into a wonderful restaurant with one of the best views in Texas. The restaurant overcame a horrible tragedy in its opening weeks and has consistently delivered great steaks along with that amazing She-Crab soup from the Carolina low country. It also has one of the best wine lists in the area.
Olivia’s on South Lamar has been a delightful find in South Austin. The husband and wife chef team deliver inspired fusion cuisine each night from a number of locally produced sources. The Braised Short Ribs atop a creamy Risotto is nothing short of bliss. The foie gras is delightful and the quail is to die for. This restaurant has also moved into our Top 20. We’ve been unsuccessfully trying to shoot a KVUE-TV review there for at least the past two months. But we’ll keep trying.
Yet another strong candidate was the wonderful Justine’s in East Austin. This little French bistro opened at 4710 East 5th by Chez Nous alums Pierre Pellegin and Justine Gilcrease has garnered rave reviews from local foodies. We are about to post our first formal review and believe me, it will be a strong one. French cuisine has been decidedly underrepresented in Austin and this has been a huge opening for East Austin.
See Rob’s REVIEW of Jack Allen’s Kitchen.
And check out the Jack Allen’s Kitchen MENU.