Best Pork Belly, Best Dim Sum, and More: Part 3 of Rob’s Best in Austin
Our continuing series on our best dishes in Austin has drawn unprecedented traffic and has generated lots of positive agreements: okay, not all, but most have agreed with us. And that’s diversity for you. So here is Part 3 on Rob’s Best Dishes in Austin. We hope you will sample all of these and share in the enjoyment.
Best Pork Belly
This was a flat-out tie between Bryce Gillmore’s wonderful Barley Swine and Shane Stark’s innovative fried rice version of this scrumptious dish at Kenichi. There is nothing quite as compelling as the wonderfully smooth and mellow yet crispy pork bellies and both restaurants have great takes on this neo-classic. Still, I wish Will Packwood’s Cibo was still open as they had an extraordinary pork belly as well. But alas, the temperamental genius has hung up his apron for the time being. You have to get to Barley Swine early as it seats less then 40 people but it’s worth the wait.
Best Dim Sum
Two restaurants stand out head and shoulders on the dim sum front and those are Shanghai on Middle Fiskville Road at IH-35 South and Chinatown on Greystone. The Yim family with son Ray and father John in the kichen and mom Alice and daughters Becky and Nancy manning the front of the house holds forth on weekends with an SRO brunch from 11-3. Dim Sum is extremely labor intensive but the results are worth it. Lovely Cilanto Shrimp dumplings, Pork and Shrimp dumplings, Salt and Pepper Shrimp, and man y other favorites light up the roving carts that move from table to table. The scallion cakes are great as well. Shanghai is packed with Chinese people on the weekends and that’s a nod to their authenticity. Chinatown’s dim sum is a bit more upscale but equally compelling. Ronald Cheng prides himself on presentation as well as flavor and some of the offerings are visually stunning as well as delicious! You can’t go wrong with either restaurant.
Best Chile con Queso
Wow, this one is packed with candidates but the winner is the venerable El Patio on Guadalupe. El Patio has been around for years anf the recipe for this amazingly comforting queso with the crunchy deep fried tortillas for dipping is a closely guarded secret that owner David Joseph refuses to reveal. The flavors of the queso are nothing short of amazing and the bean and cheese nachos are a kick as well. We love this place and you will as well. Ask for the saltines in lieu of the tortilla chips to dip into the hot sauce and ask David to tell you the story of how this came to be.
Best Gyros
I like the Gyros at Phoenicia Bakery with locations on South Lamar and Burnet. Owner Malek bakes Pita and other bread every morning for half the restaurants in town and his store is a cornucopia of Mediterranean delights. The Gyro is not genuine Greek: he offers the Americanized version of pressed lamb and beef al pastor but who cares? The flavors are killer. I like to just pick up a pound of the meat with the yogurt sauce and fresh onions, hold the pita (carbs) and just dip and nosh. On top of that, Malek is the Lebanese version of comedian Steven Wright. His dry wit never fails to amuse and he is a genuinely nice guy. His collection of fresh olives is likewise impressive.
Best Greek Salad
I have been blown away by Lakeway newcomer Sobani on several occasions. In a strip mall across from Farraday’s Kitchen Store on 620 this restaurant oozes sophistication and charm. The Greek Salad is a good example of how they integrate fresh ingredients with a wonderful homemade vinaigrette along with wonderfully moist grilled chicken and fresh sauteed peppers mixed in with the field greens. I could not put my fork down on this one. They also have a very thoughtful boutique wine list with many good ones by the glass.
Best Veal Porcini
The winner here is Andiamo! Set in a nondescript little strip mall at Burnet and Rutland Andiamo is THE spot for Italian dining in north Austin. Owner Daniella is from Naples and she presides over a rocking little kitchen that knows its way around pounded veal with cream sauce. The veal can be cut with a fork, and it’s been consistently excellent each of the many times I’ve tried it. We had a Gonzo Gourmet dinner here and they loved it as well. Also like the Gnocchi.
Best Turkey and Avocado Baguette
The winner here is the venerable Sweetish Hill Bakery on 6th Street. This Friday sandwich is so good it sells out hours in advance. My daughter Jennifer was so fanatical about it that she didn’t miss a Friday in over three years! The key to Sweetish Hill’s sandwiches is the sandwich maker Jeanne. She is a true artisan and a fixture at Sweetish Hill. I also love her mixed Italian cold cuts on fresh Ciabatta. Sweetish Hill has been around for 30 years and it’s likely they’ll go on for 30 more!
Best Indian Vegetarian
We have lots of great Indian restaurants but long-time Anderson Lane occupant Star of India produces some extraordinary veggie dishes. The flavors are searing and unrelenting with exceptional aftertastes. My favorite of all their veggie dishes is the exceptionally engaging Cabbage Bhaji. This dish resonates with exceptional flavors that result from the stir frying and the red chili, cumin and coriander powders. I have literally come close to overdosing on this dish and could eat it at anytime without qualification.