Big Reds and Bubbles: What You Missed

The Driskill was buzzing last Thursday night as the Wine & Food Foundation of Texas staged their 12th annual fundraiser Big Reds and Bubbles.

Guests were noshing and sipping a variety of restaurant food offerings, and of course some wonderful Big Reds. A particular favorite was from Angelo Sassetti Pertimali: a 2008 Brunello di Montalcino poured by Tricana Imports. It was particularly smooth for an ’08 with notes of chocolate and cherries, and a lovely finish.

Jack Gillmore was there serving up his oh-so-palatable comfort dishes from Jack Allen’s Kitchen, and was also on hand with copies of his brand new cookbook: Jack Allen’s Kitchen: Celebrating the Tastes of Texas.

Shawn Cirkiel of Chavez couldn’t make it, but his Tostaditas were there, and they were delicious. Likewise and in proximity was Chef Mark Schmidt from Blackbird and Henry on Guadalupe serving Wild Board Tostadas. Mark formerly helmed the 909 Cafe in Marble Falls.

Due Forni was serving a dish from Chef Carlos Buscasglia (Braised Short Ribs with Polenta). I sipped the Gloria Ferrer Carneros Pinot Noir 2011 along with this, and the match was well made. In the same room, one of my favorite Chefs, Peter Maffei from Finn & Porter was presenting a braised lamb ravioli. Like everything this man does, the flavors were spot-on, and it went nicely paired with the Bogle Phantom 2012.

I’m always been impressed with Erica Beneke from Max’s Wine Dive. And her Goat Gumbo did not disappoint. She’s been the deserving recipient of several awards over the past few years.

Was pleasantly surprised to see John Bates and his Noble Sandwich (formerly Noble Pig) on hand. He served Smoked Pork Cheeks with fermented potato, shallots, and mustard. It happened to be near the Luigi Righetti Amarone 2010, and so we did a test run. Great pairing! The smoke from the cheeks was the perfect foil for the subdued sweetness of the Amarone. Even though the Italians call Amarone “wines of meditation” (meaning it’s best when consumed alone), I found the pairing with the pork to be just about perfect.

Jennifer Costello and Chris Hurley from the Bonneville were very much prersent with cassoulets of duck confit. I adore a great duck confit (reminds me of Thomas Keller’s French Laundry). Liked it so much in fact that I neglected to grab a glass of wine. The Bonneville on Cesar Chavez is knocking on the door to our Top 20.

Was also pleased to see former Judge’s Hill (now Hotel Ella) exec Rob Snow on hand. He just celebrated the first anniversary of his Greenhouse Craft Food restaurant in Round Rock, and has just recently opened the Scarlet Rabbit! Rob served Bacon Wrapped Gulf Shrimp with a spicy maple glaze, and champagne poached cranberries with spiced pecans. This was the perfect and obvious spot for my favorite Veuve Clicquot Vintage Blanc 2004. If you haven’t been up to RR yet to try this great new dynamic duo of restaurants, you are missing out.

Saw Randy Cohen, founder of Ticket City on the way in and a lot of other old friends during the evening. There is a commonality of purpose and enjoyment with foodies and “wineies,” and high quality events like this tend to bring them out in droves.