Bordeaux’s

The Patio at Bordaeux's

The beauty of dining out in Austin is that not every fine meal awaits the discerning diner here in the River City. There are great experiences to be had miles from Lady Bird Lake in places like, well, Kyle. That’s right: off Exit 213 lies one of the coolest restaurants ever to grace a diminutive burb like Kyle: welcome to Bordeaux’s.

For six years Chef Larsen Wilkes has helmed this most pleasant surprise out in the country. His skills are apparent in every dish: for example, the Escargot broiled in a sweet garlic herb butter and offered with a lovely basket of heated French bread. The best part is dipping the bread in the succulent sauce that remains. And do try his Pan Steamed Chilean Blue Mussels. The mussels are always plump, juicy and full of intoxicating flavor. The white wine, red chili and fennel broth doesn’t hurt either, Again, the grilled French bread is perfect for soaking up the broth. And the Crab Fondue is another appetizer choice that’s hard to pass up. The lump crab meat is dexterously blended with seven cheese: key here is that they don’t overwhelm; rather they subtly complement the crab. Yum!

I would also recommend the Bourbon Street Pasta. The spicy cajun tomato cream sauce awakens the al dente Bowtie pasta and when this dish is on, it is indeed very rich and very tasty.

No restaurant in the Texas countryside would be worth its spurs were it not to offer several serious steaks, The 12oz Ribeye is one example. Beautifully grilled with perfect marbling, this cut works with or without béarnaise, The size is right for even a Texas appetite. And the pepper crusted New York Strip is redolent of a good night in Paris. The flavors here, accented by crisp onion rings are spot on. Tender is the word, to paraphrase F. Scott Fitzgerald. I would order it.

On the seafood side, there are an equal number of temptations at Bordeaux’s. Try the Parmesan Crusted Prawns which come alive with panko breadcrumbs and are a fine choice. The shrimp has a really engaging texture and the sweet potato fries are a nice accompaniment, The Salmon Béarnaise is another wise selection. There is nothing quite like the taste of a boneless salmon filet topped with blue crab and Chef Larson’s unique jalapeno béarnaise sauce. Talk about a confluence of flavors! Mon Dieu!

And please try the Carrot Cake (a personal bias) with Cinnamon Rum Cream Angaise. This is bliss wrapped in the guise of a spicy work of art.

So do you need another reason to head south on I-35 to exit 213? I certainly don’t. Bordeaux’s is a gift of love from Wilkes and his wife, not just to this neat little town, but to all of us north and south of the river.