Cabernet Sauvignon: The Grape of Destiny
In most upscale restaurants across Austin, you will usually see an extensive part of the wine list usually devoted to cabernet sauvignons. The cabernet sauvignon grape is the most widely grown in the world for wine production. Many think that this is an ancient grape but in truth, a DNA analysis in the 1990’s proved that it’s actually a hybrid of Sauvignon blanc and Cabernet franc that dates back about three hundred years.
You can find great cabs all over the wine world: in the Bordeaux region of France, of course; but also in Italy, Australia, South Africa, Chile and in the Napa Valley of California. The grapes do well in moderately warm, semi-arid regions that provide long growing seasons. Their tougher skins means these grapes are also pretty resistant to the diseases that can destroy a vineyard.
Cabernet Sauvignons can smell like black currants with a degree of weediness or bell pepper. The good ones are usually lively and rich and because of this, many finish with a firm astringency: this is due to the higher level of tannins. These tannins are more noticeable in cabs because the wines are fermented while in contact with the skins and seeds (the source of the red color). Typically, tannins soften as cabernet sauvignons age and the taster will note milder flavors that become more obvious: according to Wine Spectator, aromas of cedar, leather, violet and cigar box often prevail.
Ironically, many women tend to shy away from cabs because they are perceived to be “big” wines. The truth is, I’ve always felt that the term big is a misnomer for this wine. Rich, full-bodied, bold all work for me. And what’s wrong with that ladies? What’s more, as cabs age and the tannins diminish, aside from being an elegant accompaniment to steaks and chops or seafood dishes with a burre blanc sauce, a good cab will pair nicely with damned near anything! And it drinks just as well sans the accompaniment of food.
Right now, some of my favorite cabs are Callifornia based: Caymus Special Selection (the ’03 is incredible) is nothing short of remarkable. Silver Oak is quite good as well but I feel that Opus 1 (which gets enormous publicity) is good but overrated. The Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet may be the best of the lot. And film fans will find that Francis Ford Coppola knows a thing or two about wine as well: his 2003 Rubicon is equally delightful.
True, most of these wines are fairly pricey, but they do make for a very pleasant experience. On a somewhat lower price level, Stag’s Leap makes a wonderful cab. Also, for about $15, Hess has a lovely 2005 Cab.
And do try the amazing cab blend from South Africa, the 2005 Ernie Els Stellenbosch. This wine is getting better by the day and in a few years, it will be too expensive for casual consumption. But it’s ready and totally drinkable now. Twin Liquors on 71 at Bee Caves has some in stock.
Of course, the beautiful Bordeaux’s from France also feature the cabernet sauvignon grape. Of course, the history here is remarkable. The classic names are steeped in antiquity: Chateau Margaux, Chateau Latour, and the always astonishing Chateau Haut-Brion. 2,000 was a fantastic year for these great wines along with many others in Bordeaux and these are now hitting the shelves. If you can get your hands on a bottle, split it with friends if you have to. But if you’re a wine fan, you will enjoy a bottle of one of the all stars.
Tasting: You don’t have to be a wine snob to enjoy a good bottle of Cabernet sauvignon. Enjoy it for what it is. Have fun with it. When you first open the bottle and the sommelier pours it for you, gently swirl it around in your glass. This will increase the surface area of the glass that the wine makes contact with and will enhance its natural aroma (very critical in the first impression of a Cabernet).
Then put your nose to the rim of the glass and inhale deeply. If you detect an aroma of a moldy newspaper or a wet dog, there’s a good chance your bottle is corked. That does not mean that it has pieces of cork floating in it; rather, a corked wine is one where the cork has been affected by a bacterium which then taints the entire bottle of wine.
Your odds of opening a bottle that’s corked are about 1 in 30 so it shouldn’t happen often. Normally, you’ll get very pleasant aromas from your deeper inhalation (often known as the nose or boquet). Wine expert Stacy Slinkard suggests what to do next when you’re ready for the first sip. Start with a small one and let it roll around your tongue. Then allow a small breath of air in through your lips (this takes a bit of practice) and let the wine mingle with the air. This is called swirling. And it will let you taste the flavors even more fully.
As you begin to enjoy your wine, pay attention to what’s known as the “finish”. This is how long the flavor lasts. Also tilt your glass to the side and see if there are any rivulets running down the glass. These are known as “the legs” of the wine and are an indication of the wine’s alcohol content. Most cabs have fairly high alcohol contents.
So there you have it. The Cabernet sauvignon is my favorite wine: either as a French Bordeaux or it’s Napa valley cousin. Remember, the younger cabs, as a rule, are going to have fairly high levels of tannins. Give these wines extra time to open after uncorking. If you’re fortunate to have an older cab, well then just sit back and enjoy the ride.
Twin Liquors has a number of excellent value-priced Cabernets along with a good selection of the more notable bottles.
