Daryl Wittle: Running a Chain Like it’s Not a Chain
Fleming’s – Daryl Wittle
Truth be told, there’s not that much to separate Austin’s top steak and seafood houses with regard to cuisine when they are in top form.. We have some great choices. Sometimes the make-or-break option comes down to style and service and overall hospitality. And Fleming’s at the Domain has this in abundance. Wittle, a 30-year veteran of the Austin restaurant wars (he began at the memorable Basil’s) has learned how to fine tune a fine dining restaurant. He sets the tone for an evening full of substance and also the aforementioned style.
You walk into Fleming’s at the Domain, and it’s dark and a bit seductive, but equally open and populated with staff who are well-trained and quite obviously give a damn. You are then sincerely greeted several times and ushered to your table.
Almost immediately your server approaches, and your experience begins. This does not happen at all large chains. But it always does at the Fleming’s at the Domain: and that’s because of Daryl.
I’ve never had a bad meal there, nor bad service there over the last ten years. Once, a piece of fish was a bit off and the problem was immediately remedied. It’s what people expect but don’t often receive from high-end chains (witness the recent demise of Eddie V’s since the Darden takeover). Again, Wittle is the driving force. He’s like Mark Katz used to be, without all the schmooz: working the tables, serving as the congenial host and more importantly, playing the role of ombudsman when needed.
But he’s way more than just a greeter. We were discussing a King Crab choice the other night, and I was steering my daughter away from it because it was out of season. Daryl overheard, came by and amiably overruled me. He explained to Lauren that even during season, at most restaurants, the product arrives frozen While doing this he was gracious enough to point out that Truluck’s does have a small window in October where the crabs are served fresh. (Can’t think of too many other owners or managers who would do that.) So she ordered it, and it was spot-on, to the point that I was soon stealing a leg or two from her plate.
He introduced one of the new chefs, chatted with us for a bit and then, as he should have, left us to our wonderful meal. Watching this guy work is a pleasure for anyone in the industry. For a customer, it’s the reason why Fleming’s has so many regulars and while, though a chain, it is so much more.
