Emerald Restaurant

 
One of my favorite movies tells the story of Ray Kinsella, an Iowa farmer who hears a voice in his cornfield telling him to “build it and he will come.”

Unbeknownst to most of you, there’s an Austin chapter in the Kinsella saga. Almost twenty years ago, New Yorker Paul Kinsella heard a voice telling him to build an Irish restaurant in Austin on Highway 71 near 620. “Trust me, as I live and breathe, they’ll be comin'” said the voice, in a rich brogue. Well, lest we get too carried away with our fable, the closest that Paul Kinsella ever came to meeting Ray Kinsella was when he saw Kevin Costner in “Field of Dreams,” and the voice actually belonged to his wife, Marge, who’s from Ireland.

Nonetheless, the Emerald Restaurant was born, and we’re all better off for it.

You can drive by the Emerald Restaurant if you’re not careful, so be careful. It’s just past Rosie’s Mexican joint on Highway 71. It’s set back from the road in an old house. But once inside–and I don’t know if it’s the leprechauns afoot or not–but magic happens.

For us, it began with a basket of delicious traditional Irish breads. After that, a salad with an original dressing that tasted of celery and shallots. Lovely. Then, a fabulously tasty potato soup. The Irish and potatoes go back for centuries, so they don’t take this dish lightly. Make sure you try it.

We then had imperial shrimp that was sensational. The shrimp were sautéed in a creamy mustard base that just crackled with flavor. A heavy dish, but one worth the calories.

We also tried the Dublin Lawyer Special, which featured two rock lobster tails served in a puff pastry after being simmered in heavy cream and Irish whiskey. The best we could do after eating this terrific dish was to agree to a plea bargain to run eight miles the next day.

Then, a sensational New Zealand rack of lamb with a light bread stuffing. This is the kind of dish that’s so good you’ve got to find a thesaurus to look up some new complimentary adjective. The lamb was mild and beautifully cooked and presented.

One thing the voice did not tell Paul Kinsella to do was to charge low prices. Reinforce your wallet before you hit the Emerald Restaurant. But trust me, it’s worth every penny.