Fado Irish Pub

 
Fourth Street in the warehouse district has evolved in the last several years. From a decidedly laid back strip with a few scattered bars and coffee houses, the place has become as old James Taylor once said, “a churning urn of burning funk.” Humanity, much of it female, engulfs you at every turn. It’s become the quintessential yuppie destination, with power restaurants like Mezzaluna and Sullivan’s, Toney Seafood emporiums like Truluck’s and Gilligan’s, funky doo dad spots like Malaga and Saba Bluewater and the exotic Cedar Street located between them. Through and about every one of these places, particularly from Wednesday to Saturday nights, moves a cornucopia of Austin’s finest young professionals. They eat, drink, laugh, dance and thank God they’re not living in Beaumont.

One of the epicenters of all this nocturnal frenzy is the Irish-styled pub, Fado, which is next to Saba. While they’ve attempted an Irish flavor here, the mood is still decidedly Austin. You can get your Guinness, and Bass, and Harps on draft to be sure. But most pubs I’ve been to in Ireland are rather severe on the ambiance side. And, to make things worse, until recently, they had to close, by law, at 11pm. Fado, by contrast, is warm and inviting, and last time I was there, about a quarter to midnight, the joint was absolutely rocking.

This is not the place to take the kids. It’s noisy, boisterous, and full of adults being… well… adult. But the food is really quite good. First trip I tried the signature corn beef and cabbage. The cabbage tasted like it had been sautéed instead of boiled and it was wonderful. Served over a mountain of lightly mashed potatoes, the corn beef had a great texture and taste. A little bit too much grizzle in places for my palate. Work on that, and its perfect!

Another Irish staple is the Boxy, found in rural Irish villages. This is essentially a potato pancake, rolled and stuffed with filling. They’ve successfully replicated this dish here at Fado. There are several to choose from and I suggest you do. You also must try the all day Irish breakfast. This consists of two eggs, gal tee Irish sausages (which the British call bangers), rashers, black and white puddings, baked beans, (yeah, I know that sounds a bit odd) tomatoes and brown bread. But I’ll tell you what, it works! I loved it.

The kitchen’s open late at Fado, and that’s good, because one needs food to wash down all the Guinness. Whether you’re in the demographic target group or not, you need to check this place out.