Hoover Alexander: a Chef and Man for All Seasons

Hoover Alexander

I first met Hoover Alexander almost 30 years ago when I was doing my short-lived and first restaurant review stint on the then KTVV-TV (now KXAN-TV) and he was cooking at a little Cajun joint on 6th St.. I remember being impressed not only by his talent but also by his outgoing personality and charm along with his easy-going demeanor.

We stayed in touch after the restaurant closed (no fault of his), and met up again when he surfaced at the memorable Good Eats on Barton Springs (the current site, several restaurants removed, of Uncle Billy’s BBQ!). Good Eats had the best breakfast around at the time, and it was totally because of Hoover’s impressive work in the kitchen. I still remember the amazing Blueberry Bran Muffins and the stunningly good Migas. Best of all, when Hoover emerged from the kitchen, it was with that ear-to-ear smile that just lit up the room. He was bald then as well, in fact I never remember him with hair. Good Eats had a decent run but then the inevitable downturn occurred (this time due to apparent upper-level mismanagement), and once again Hoover was without a restaurant.

He came to my office, and we chatted for a few hours about his idea for a southern-style down-home kind of restaurant. Something that would take him back to his East Texas roots. The more I heard the more I liked. He developed a sound business plan, and that was the beginning of the delightful Hoover’s Cooking on Manor Road. He also opened one in San Antonio. And then a third on 183 at the site of the former Ray’s Steakhouse. The idea was good southern chow: smothered pork chops, grilled or fried catfish, BBQ, a real Muffaletta, killer mac and cheese (with a surprising addition from my Hungarian chef Grandmother’s recipe) and wonderful sides like Okra and Collared greens and mountainous portions of steamed broccoli. Also some serious home made desserts: start with Pecan Pie and Cobblers and end there as far as I’m concerned. And did I forget the killer New Orleans-style weekend Sunday brunch?

Hoover is a loyal man: both to his friends and his customers. I’ve never seen him turn away anyone in need. When his long-time manager Skip needed costly back surgery, Hoover was on the front lines leading the fund raising. And when his own finances soured due to a moronic series of city inspectors at the Research store, and he was forced to close San Antonio and then finally the north Austin store, I never heard a harsh word out of him. He just went back to work and dedicated himself to smoothing things out. I’ve seen other restaurant folks take lesser setbacks with much more vitriol!

But Hoover Alexander is indomitable. He has willed himself back to profitability, and has also introduced a trailer to complement his brick and mortar down home pleasure palace. The guy is one of the most likable and humble folks I’ve ever met in this business. When he shakes hands or gives you a hug, you get the feeling that he really means it. He exudes genuineness and kindness: you know that once he’s your friend, it’s a lifetime kind of thing!

So if you happen to run into a bald, African-American man with an ear-to-ear grin that lights up the room, and he’s wearing chef’s whites, well then you’ve probably just met Hoover. And trust me, that would be a good thing!

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