How Healthy is the High End Dining Scene in Austin
The relative health of a cosmopolitan city’s high-end dining scene speaks volumes about the discretionary spending inclinations and overall financial condition of that city. So key question: how does Austin measure up to other cities comparable to our population and demographic profiles? And the answer, despite some recent high profile closings, is pretty darn good.
The key variable in this analysis is the understanding that higher end restaurants battle for the smallest segment of the regular dining out audience. Fewer than 15% of the Austin dining out population frequent restaurants where dinner for two and a couple glasses of wine will total over $125. Since we have a pleasantly high number of these places (just look at our Top 20) it suggests a high level of competition for those dollars. And yes, the casualty list can be high. Profit margins can be thin at some of these places because of excessive food and capital costs.
And a bad weekend can flat-out ruin a month. Yet despite the high start-up costs and the vagaries of the upscale dining crowd, Austin has a very healthy number of upscale restaurants. And by and large, the city has shown an inclination to support them.
One measure of this relative health is the large number of fine dining spots that have enjoyed at least ten-years of longevity. Jeffrey’s, the dean of bistro dining, has been wowing patrons for over 30 years! Ditto for interior Mexican Fonda San Miguel. And Green Pastures has been around for even longer than that! Likewise for the Old Pecan St. Cafe on W. 6th.
And despite a recent ownership change Mirabelle has also had a great run along with the incomparable Chez Zee. And even with three ownership changes, the Paggi House has continued a 30-year tradition of excellence. And let’s not forget the lovely Chez Nous which has graced the downtown landscape for many years. And Ronald Cheng’s Chinatown, which raised the bar for upscale Chinese dining in Austin in 1982, is still in our Top 20.
Legendary chef Elmar Prambs opened and continues to helm the original Cafe at the Four Seasons (now Trio) and shows no signs of slowing down after 25 years. And how could we forget the incomparable Hudson’s on the Bend out near Lakeway? They have set the benchmark for fine dining for years now in southwest Austin.
And we have a number of great spots in the 10-year plus club as well. Eddie V’s, Z Tejas, Cafe Josie, The Roaring Fork, Truluck’s, and La Traviata along with Vespaio and sushi original Musashino contribute to a great and consistent dining heritage.
Another key variable in the analysis of the health of upscale dining in Austin is the number of nationally recognized chefs who have launched recent ventures. David Bull’s 2nd and Congress have justifiably received national attention as have Tyson Cole’s Uchi and Uchiko. Bryce Gillmore’s Barley Swine has also received national acclaim. And how could we ignore Santa Catarina in Lakeway?
That said, we’ve had a number of casualties in the fine dining segment. But the key is that for all the lamented closings (Aquarelle, Louie’s 106, El Arbol, Silver and Stone, Bistro 88, Roy’s, and many more) there have been virtually as many new openings. That and the longevity of some of the key restaurants speaks volumes. For all the economic malaise nationally, fine dining is alive and well in Austin and a key component and indicator of the economic strength of the River City.
