Hyde Park Bar & Grill

 
South Austin got an early Christmas present last year from Bick Brown in the form of the opening of the Hyde Park Bar and Grill at Westgate adjacent to Central Market. The original store on Duval has been rocking for 24 years. And for those anxiously awaiting this opening, it seemed like it might take another 24 years to get it done. But all’s well that ends well, and things are, well, “well” at the new south location.

The appetizers at this tastefully appointed restaurant (formerly the regrettable and forgettable Grandy’s) are as well conceived as they are delicious and inviting. I love the Artichoke Hearts. They are marinated, lightly breaded and fried, and the flavor is rich and delightful. The Hyde Park sauce is perfect. And ditto for Hyde Park’s paean to dim sum, the Steamed Dumplings. Filled with chicken, cabbage, ginger and scallions, the dumplings are a treat with the Thai Sauce. They are on the light side as dumplings go which is refreshing. Another interesting dish is the Sweet Corn and Cheese Tamales. This vegan dish features a rocking masa and a lovely mixture of kernel corn, carrots and spices. It has a decidedly mellow flavor but is not too sweet (often the downfall of this dish).

The burgers and sandwiches at Hyde Park are equally worthy of your consideration. I really enjoy the Kobe Beef Burger. This 8oz patty comes on a foccaca roll along with all the fixings. The outcome is tender and quite tasty. And it’s mandatory to accompany the burger with the famous Hyde Park fries. And I’m also very partial to the Garden Burger when I want something lighter. Made of grains, veggies and cheeses, the burger has a distinctively appealing flavor. Vegans will love it. And I find it hard to resist the ultimate comfort sandwich, the Pimento Cheese and Cucumber. My mother used to make these for me as a kid, and mom would be quite pleased to see Hyde Park carrying on this tasty tradition.

The entrees are really varied and have unique taste components. The Citrus Marinated Flat Iron Steak is a nice turn on this popular cut. The marinade of orange and lemon juices, sherry, garlic and soy sauces provides a steak with a really compelling flavor. Tender too.

The Sautéed Crab Cakes are a slam dunk of great tastes and textures. I love the presentation as the cakes are served over rosemary new potatoes in a nice corn broth.

And no visit to Hyde Park should be completed without sampling the Dijon Artichoke Chicken. The Dijon Sauce is the key and they have nailed it. The roasted garlic mashers are the logical and delicious complement.

Hyde Park Bar and Grill has become a welcome addition to South Austin. The reasons, as I have just demonstrated, are numerous. Too numerous in fact to document with one review. Which is why I suggest you visit this restaurant often, as I do.