La Traviata

 
You know I have a prevailing philosophy: if in doubt when naming an Italian restaurant, always opt for the name of a popular opera. You simply can’t miss in that case. Giuseppe Verdi knew a thing or two about opera and his magnificent La Traviata (The Wayward Woman), written in 1853, showcases the unfortunate Violetta as she vows to live a life dedicated to pleasure. Again, I say, great name! Because Marion Gilchrist’s incomparable Congress Ave. restaurant, named after the Verdi opera, has given yours truly years of dining pleasure.

Marion Gilchrist

Opened in 2000, La Traviata has aged like a fine Brunello. A true Italian trattoria, La Traviata showcases Gilchrist’s passion for building simple dishes that ultimately reverberate with layers of taste. In no dish is this skill more evident than in her lovely Bruschetta with Roasted Bell Peppers and Goat Cheese. I’ve had this appetizer probably a dozen times and I’ve never been disappointed. The peppers and cheese create wonderful layers of flavor on the crostini and the accompanying arugula seals it. Equally simple yet terrifically satisfying is the Crispy Polenta with gorgonzola cream sauce. The polenta, infused with rosemary, is perfectly crisp. The sauce is rich and luxurious. Together, they make magic. And no trip to La Traviata affords more pleasure than whatever soup Marion happens to be making that day. I’ve tried them all: mushroom, cauliflower, butternut squash, the flavor and the texture are unremitting because they are not tricked up with additives. Everything flows from the fresh vegetables that begin process. You can never make a poor selection when ordering a soup from La Travita.

The entrees at La Traviata range from sumptuous pastas to an astounding duck confit and all are superb. The Rigatoni with Spicy Lamb meatballs tastes as good today as when it first amazed me eight years ago. The keys to this dish are the subtle flavors of the roasted tomato sauce and the lingering spiciness of the lamb meatballs. Each bite is a mini aria. And the Spaghetti Carbonara continues to delight. The origins of the name of this dish (carbonara means charcoal in Italian) are lost in obscurity: but the key difference between the American version and Italian version is the use of cream. La Traviata’s version offers spaghetti lightly coated with cream, butter, lemon and topped with an egg yolk. Of course, the obligatory pancetta (bacon only as last resort) completes this mini fresco. What flavor!

And who better to present a Cioppino than someone who studied in San Francisco? Gilchrist’s take on this classic west coast seafood stew in a white whine garlic sauce is spot on. What I particularly like about the dish is that it’s not runny: the sauce maintains its texture.

Finish with the beautifully imagined Granita (shaved ice) for dessert and your feast is complete. Too bad Verdi’s Violetta couldn’t have ended her quest for pleasure at the restaurant named after her opera. She might have demanded a rewrite in the libretto so she could stay around longer!