Local Chefs Who Don’t Always Get the Big Headlines (But Should)
Steve Southern at Southern’s at PBK
Without question there is a media pecking order with respect to our local superstar chefs. You can’t pick up any periodical, visit a blog or website without hearing names like Aaron Franklin, David Bull, Paul Qui, Rene Ortiz, Shawn Cirkiel, Tyson Cole, Bryce Gillmore with significant frequency. Do they deserve the spotlight? Most definitely. They are all uber-talented, and they run fabulous restaurants.
But this week we want to take a look beyond the glow of the spotlights, and share with you some of our favorite local chefs who may not get as much press but certainly deserve it.
Steve Southern. Steve pioneered the tequila grill concept at Iron Cactus and has since gone on to open Southern’s at PBK in Pflugerville. This guy knows his way around a kitchen, and is an expert at upscale comfort food. Pflugerville badly needed a restaurant like Southern’s. He is an amiable and extremely charming guy and very, very talented.
Margarito Maldonado. The owner of Los Pinos, Margarito worked both for Jack Gillmore and Micheal Vilim at Mirabelle (as sous). You don’t find many Mexican restaurants headed by a chef with that kind of pedigree. That’s one of the many reasons his food is so interesting and approachable. And so damned tasty.
Ben Nathan. The exec chef of Café Blue at the Galleria and before that head chef at The Belmont, Nathan’s New England roots are on display in his amazing clam chowder (with just a hint of bacon). But like all great chefs, he is diverse. He also makes one of the best Cubano sandwiches around, and can make an Atlantic salmon stand up and start dancing on the plate.
Ronald Cheng
Ronald Cheng. You never see Ronald headlining a session at the Austin Food and Wine Festival but his his three Chinatown restaurants have set the bar for Chinese cuisine in Austin. Jade Dumplings, Honey Pepper Beef, Thai Pepper Basil Shrimp, Fragrant Togon with Shaved Pork… these are dishes seared into the consciousness of Chinatown fans, as well they should be. Ronald was just a kid, in his young 20’s when he began Chinatown on Bee Caves Road. Last year he reopened Chinatown at the exact same location 30 years later. Neat guy, and a very cool story.
Raymond Yim. Shanghai is a little restaurant on Middle Fiskville Road that often gets overlooked, except on Saturday and Sunday when they roll out the dim sum carts and the place is a madhouse. At the helm is Ray Yim, as nice a guy you could meet who could have taken his CIA training and cooked anywhere. But he chose to work with father John, sister Becky, mother Alice and the whole family. He has a deft touch around a wok, and is a master at creating flavors.
Amir and Ali Hajimaleki. These brothers parlayed their experience at the Kona Grill into their own unique concept at District Kitchen on Escarpment. They have hit a home run with this restaurant, and their success is well-deserved. Though both are still in the late 20’s, they run the place like seasoned veterans. The lamb kabobs, the beet salad, the various Flat Breads, the Bronzini, well, you need to try this place.
Chae Donahue and Rob Walczyk. These are two remarkable and talented men and they’ve turned Creek Road Café in Dripping Springs into one of Austin’a destination restaurants. Chae overcame chronic COPD, underwent a lung transplant, and was back in his kitchen within the year. His partner Rob is a terrific chef in his own right. Their soups are nothing short of remarkable, and there isn’t a dish on the menu that I would not recommend. The Fried Oysters are otherworldly, as is the astonishing Pork Chop.
Frankie Hoch. What can you say about a guy who fixes police cars during the day and at night and on weekends turns into an almost zen-like grillmaster? It’s All Good Bar-B-Q on 71 in Spicewood is where he gets to strut his stuff along with his three partners, two of whom have other day jobs as well. They met years ago on the competitive BBQ circuit, and have turned IAG into a labor of love. Frankie’s gigantic short rib may well be the BEST in central Texas, and he is a very engaging guy when he turns on that East Texas charm. Frankie has a legion of fans and for good reason.
Rob and Chae from Creek Rosd
Sap. His last name is unpronounceable to the American tongue. So why bother. Just call him Sap. He runs two of the best Thai restaurants in central Texas (on Westgate and Burnet), and grows fresh herbs and spices in his garden outside the restaurant. Sap used to be married to Mam, hence the earlier name was Madam Mam’s. But a divorce split up the small chain, and left Sap with restaurants on Westgate and Burnet. He is one of the nicest, most genuine guys in the Austin restaurant scene. And he makes a killer Tiger Cry along with a Green Curry that will light up your day. Sap remarried and now has two beautiful babies. Good for him!
Josh Kaner. I first met Josh 4-5 years ago at the HEB in Dripping Springs. He sought me out to tell me his plans for a new pizza joint on 290 and how he’d lovingly carried his sourdough starter with him from California. Well his restaurant is called Pieous, and they came in Number 2 this year in our annual Pizza Wars. The pizza is staggeringly good, and conforms pretty darned closely to the AVPN rules. They also make a killer pastrami sandwich and some seriously good (Blueberry) pie.
Hoover Alexander. Hoover certainly deserves more press than he gets. He is the professor emeritus of Southern cuisine and the owner of Hoover’s Cooking on Manor Road. You have not tasted bliss until you try his smothered Pork Chops or his Blackened Catfish. And the breakfast Hoe Cakes are literally the best in that genre that I have ever tasted. Hoover’s 30+ year career in food has all been in Austin and we foodies are all the better off for his presence.
You don’t hear that much about these guys on the over-hyped buzz food sites in Austin. But they and their contemporaries are the heart and soul of what makes this such a great food city.
