Our Best New Austin Restaurants in 2012
Every time we do a Food Friday show on KLBJ-AM, the common thread from listeners is that we are so fortunate to have so many new, good restaurants in the Austin area. While some of these, alas, don’t make it, many do and the point of this piece is to highlight my favorites from the past year.
Sean Cirkiel has been a major player on the Austin food scene for many years, beginning with Jean Luc’s Bistro (where Perry’s now stands). He moved on to start the award-winning Parkside on 6th and then, this past year, to the amazing Olive & June, named after his and his wife’s grandmothers. I am totally enamored with the Lobster Risotto and the many creative pasta dishes. Olive & June is at 3411 Glenview Ave., and has given that entire area a nice lift.
Another new restaurant that benefited from an amazing moment of serendipity was Café Blue at the Galleria. The restaurant had established a great niche at Volente Beach but their operation was seasonal. The closing of a high-end seafood restaurant at the Galleria was perfect timing for Café Blue. Along with the sudden availability of Chef Ben Nathan (who opened The Belmont, and then moved on to Chez Zee), Jason Landtroop and his partners were able to create a year-round restaurant with very little build out. The food is excellent, and is a blend of old favorites from the lakeside operation to some of Ben’s new dishes. The Clam Chowder is a delight and the Redfish Louisiane is another favorite. And Ben’s Cubano sandwich is one of the best of this genre around (The Gnarly Gar is the other great one).South Austin has not been a hot-bed of dining excellence, but that was before the advent of Café Malta at William Cannon and Brodie. The Pansotti is a blast, and just sizzles with taste. The pasta triangles filled with goat cheese and arugula are superb. The Pan-Seared Bronzini is a wonderful fish dish, and their version of Hummus is one of the best around. Of course you would expect this from a Mediterranean restaurant, right?
The Gluten-free craze has come to fruition at the lovely little Riviera Bistro at The Shops at the Galleria. Chef Shoel has proved that gluten-free does not have to mean taste-free. Their Shrimp dishes are delightful and the soups are full of interesting flavors and textures. And you can indulge in your favorite Calamari fitters again without worry. The Pork Tenderloin is a wonderful dish and even the Meatballs are spot-on. The environment is 100% gluten-free, and they’ve recently expanded.
Just when you thought it was absolutely impossible for downtown to absorb another steakhouse, along comes Rivals Steakhouse on East 5th. Bryan Soltis and his partners have crafted a fun and engaging restaurant that plays off the old Ray’s Steakhouse idea. Instead of everything being à la carte, the steaks and other entrees come with sides and choice of soup or salad. And the Pork Chops may be my favorite thing on the menu. And they have killer soups, always a good sign.
In Westlake across from Davenport, Trento is coming up on its 1st anniversary. Donnie Damuth, former GM of the popular NoRTH at the Domain, is the proprietor; and young chefs Alex and Dre are very talented. The daily Antipasto includes a stunning Burrata, a mixture of mozzarella and cream and some killer Gnocchi. The Linguini alle Vongole may be the best pasta and clam with a white sauce dish in the city.
CK Chin and Stuart Thomajan struck a major chord with the opening of Swift’s Attic on Congress. This is a small plates concept at the site of the former Kyoto. I really get a kick out of this restaurant. Their Pork Cheeks are terrific, the Duck Wings are a blast, the Calamari slices are thick, loaded with taste and texture, and their signature dessert, Popcorn and a Movie, is irresistible. Kudos to Pastry Chef Callie Speer for this one. And hats off to Chefs Mat Clouser and Zack Northcutt. Their talent is obvious.
Royal India, on Highway 290 adjacent to the Holiday Inn Express, is the younger and more sophisticated sibling to the Star of India on Anderson Lane. This is Indian food at its engaging best. While only open for about four months now, it has taken off. The vegetable dishes like the Dai Makhani (lentil bliss) and exemplary Saag Paneer (spinach that even your kids would eat) are spot-on, and the Aloo Paratha may be the best of all the Indian breads I’ve tasted. Vir and Jae Singh have knocked this one out of the park.
The Salty Sow is a bit derivative of Barley Swine, but we’ll forgive them for that. In our current mania for all things pig and the reinvention of broccoli, brussels sprouts and cauliflower as main dishes, the Sow delivers. Not the most original restaurant, again no great sin there, but their replications of some of my favorite foods from around the city are pretty much spot on. The Duck Fat Fries are ridiculously good, even if they may not be the healthiest thing for you. The Duck breast is also a smash: proving that they are capable of doing things other than piggly wigglies. Good for the East side.
Two restaurants down the street from each other in Lakeway, Fore and the League Kitchen and Tavern also make the list. Chef James Ramsey departed his beloved Georgetown spot Silver and Stone to take the helm at Fore, and he’s done a great job. His Sausage and Pepper burger is OMG good! And the Root Beer Ribs are exemplary. They’ve also created as late-night scene for the first time in Lakeway. And from the remains of Ciola’s (and the disastrous closing brought on by the duplicitous new owner), Tony Ciola and Creed Ford IV virtually overnight came up with The League Kitchen and Tavern. Kudos to them for the way and the speed with which they turned this around. The food is excellent (love the Chicken Pot Pie), and the Meatloaf bites are seriously tasty. Ditto for the Fish and Chips. The mural that covers the back wall (Atlantic City circa 1923) is spectacular.