Pieous

12005 Hwy. 290 W. Austin, TX 78737 (512) 394-7041

Tue-Fri: 11am-2pm Tue-Fri: 4-9pm Sat: 11am-9pm Sun: 11am-8pm

 

I met a young man named Josh Kaner several years ago at the HEB in Dripping Springs. He sought me out to tell me about his ideas for a new pizza/sandwich joint which would replace the old Cartwright’s BBQ (ugh) on 290 West near the Nutty Brown Cafe. I listened to this enthusiastic man talk about his dream and remember thinking, “Well, he’s got the first requisite for a successful restaurant: an unrequited passion for his craft.”

Several years later, Pieous has evolved into one of the best pizza joints in the area, and a sure-fire bet to make it in to our Top 5 when the next installment of Pizza Wars rolls out in April. Josh is producing pizzas that follow the AVPN rules that first came out in 2009 to safeguard the heritage and history of Neapolitan pies. Wood burning oven. Pies cooked in less than two minutes, no more than 12 inches in diameter, in an stone oven at 485 degrees. The crust must be formed by hand, and the pies are typically limited to several variants of the classic Margherita pizza with tomatoes, sliced mozzarella cheese, extra virgin olive oil and of course basil. Of course, the bottoms are seared and the edges blistered as any artisan would expect.

Josh and his wife Paige are music industry transplants from California. They are so passionate about their new business that Josh carried his own sourdough starter all the way from the west coast. He uses this to make the pizza dough and also to bake the bread for their stunning pastrami sandwiches. The result of this are some damned good pizzas with crusts that would please even the most robust New Haven sensibilities. We like the Bacon pie: incomparable flavor and texture, and of course the Margherita, textbook in every sense. Another killer pizza is the Sausage and they allow you to customize the toppings.

But the moist pastrami on their homemade sourdough may be the best of all. What a sandwich! As good or better than the Carnegie Deli in NYC, and that’s saying something. The pastrami absolutely oozes taste and flavor and yes, it’s a wee bit fatty, but that’s where all that taste and flavor come from. Can’t stay away from these.

Pieous also produces, true to its name, terrific pies from a show stealing Tiramisu to a Blueberry Pie that actually gets better by the bite. Massive chocolate chip cookies don’t detract either.

The only negatives thus far are they often run out of things and there is usually a line of customers running directly through the middle of the restaurant. My suggestion would be to add more tables and servers, and dispense with the line. Other than that, Highway 290 West has got a real player on the Austin Pizza scene. Josh claims his pizza is THE best in town. Understandable enthusiasm, but in his case, he’s not that far from being at least in the top 3. This is a place you need to try. Have patience when you go, but prepare to be delighted.

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