Pizza Wars 2007
At the bottom, and deservedly so, is the always awful Dominoes. How this chain has survived is beyond me. Their crust is wretched: soggy and without taste. Just a neck above Dominoes is the woeful CiCI’s and the steadily declining Mr. Gatti’s. Little Caesar’s isn’t much better.
Double Dave’s is a bit of an improvement and Pizza Hut can sometimes actually be surprisingly edible.
Papa John’s has improved, I’ll say that for them. Truth is though, that most of these pizzas must be eaten quickly. Time does not serve them well. And none of them can pass the refrigerator test. And I am still trying to figure out what the hell is so special about California Pizza Kitchen? The name? That’s all I can think of. Or perhaps that it’s at the mall. Shoppers are strange: they will eat average pizza because it’s where they are shopping.
Moving up, even though it’s a national chain, you have to give some props to Buca di Bepo. Their Margherita pizza is pretty darned good. I’m also starting to really like the pizzas at Craig O’s which has two locations on 290 and Balcones. Local chain Mangia makes a good deep dish pie but I’m not a big fan of that genre. But I’ve heard many good things about their pies from deep dish fans. Austin’s Pizza has declined a bit since their sale and downsizing, but they are still pretty good. Another good recommendation is Southside Pizza on S. Congress (442-4246).
Moving still much further up the food chain, I really like Mangieri’s in far S. Austin at Slaughter and Escarpment. This is a family-owned spot and their whole wheat crust is the bomb. In fact all their crusts are delightful. And do make it a point to try Rounder’s on W. 6th. Their garlic knots are amazing and the pizza is very tasty.
Also very good is East Side Pies over in east Austin. Serious east coast sensibilities here. Ditto for Brooklyn Pies with locations in N. Austin, Round Rock and Georgetown. Another recommendation is Arpeggio Grill on Airport just north of Highland Mall (419-0110). And the pizza at Vespaio Enoteca (441-7672), the sister place to Vespaio on S. Congress features wonderfully crisp crusts with interesting combinations. And what’s not to like about the venerable Frank and Angie’s? Don King turned me on to this place and I owe him a debt of gratitude. Also cool sandwiches and tasty cannolis. And Milto’s on Guadalupe has been cranking out excellent pies for a number of years. You want to talk vintage Austin? This it it.
At the very top tier, there are some serious contenders for the crown. Home Slice on S. Congress has become one of my favorites. It’s not quite New Haven, CT quality (as they advertise) but it’s very good. Kudos to them for having the huevos to try and do a clam pizza. Their crusts have classic east coast texture. Available by the slice. A relatively new player on the scene is Salvation Pizza (535-0076) on W. 34th St. (former home of Starlite). These people are from Hartford, CT and they know how to bring it. This is what a sausage pizza should taste like. Saccones, with a new location in Round Rock has vintage NY-style flavors and textures. They’ve been at or near the top of our list since they opened. And deservedly so. You want a gigantic slice of good pizza? Try Ropollo’s on E. 6th St. They get it right almost every time here and they have a walk-up window on 6th. I once ordered the large sausage and mushroom at our office. It must have weighed 10 pounds! The delivery guy had trouble getting it up the stairs.
And Brick Oven, the first pizza place I ever really liked in Austin is still doing well. They have locations on Slaughter, Red River and Jollyville and I still love their vegetarian pie. Great flavor! And whatever you do, don’t overlook the pizza at Cipollina on West Lynn. Crispy crusts, wonderful cheese, and great sauces and toppings. The quality of their pies may derive from the fact that they are an overall excellent restaurant that just happens to serve pizza as one of its offerings. Another old favorite still going strong is Reale’s on 183. This family-owned classic has what may be the best pepperoni pizza in the area.
So who is #1? I tell you what; it’s so close at the top that I can’t make up my mind. But you are welcome to cast your ballot here. Perhaps you can help me crown the new king for ’08.
