Pizza Wars: Rob Ranks Pizzas in the Austin Area

Most of you know that I’m originally from New Haven, Conn. This is the epicenter of great pizza with the shrine of all US pizza joints: Pepe’s and Sally’s. Also the amazing Grande Apizza in East Haven. So I know from whence I speak when it comes to pizza. Our early years down here were spent in total frustration searching for anything that resembled an East Coast pie. Then, finally, Brick Oven opened. At last, a decent pizza. Not New Haven, but better than anything else we’d found. But I’m getting ahead of myself.

Let’s start and the low end of the scale with the national chains. They range from truly awful to pretty good. The absolute worst, bottom of all bottom feeders, is Domino’s. I cannot believe they have the unmitigated gall to pitch a “Brooklyn” pizza. God help us all. They wouldn’t know a Brooklyn pizza if fell out of the sky and landed on “toity-toid” street. Other marginal players, in my opinion, include Ci Ci’s, Pizza Hut, and Little Caesar’s. Most of their pies feature gobs of cheese with nondescript sauce and mediocre crusts. Mr. Gatti’s can be occasionally OK but must be eaten within five minutes of presentation. No “morning after” shelf life. Pappa Johns and Double Daves can also deliver an edible pie. And then there’s California Pizza Kitchen. I don’t get this place. Why in the hell would anyone want a pizza with Thai veggies and chicken breasts on it? Way too disingenuous for me. Of all the national chains, I think that Bucca di Bepo off N. Mopac (next to Dave and Buster’s) makes a great pie. Their Margarita is a killer as is their fennel sausage pie.

Then there are local chains like Austin’s Pizza that are much better. Austin’s Pizza offer a much better brick-oven pie. They grew very quickly and got a little too big. A subsequent ownership change enabled them to steamline things a bit and get the company back under control. That’s good because I like their pizzas. Another smaller local chain that’s also very good is the Brooklyn Pie company with three locations in N. Austin, Round Rock and Georgetown. Brooklyn Pies have excellent crust, which is the foundation for all great pizza. They have a zesty sauce as well. Local chain Mangia makes a good pie, but I’m not a fan of deep-dish Chicago-style pizza. But personal bias, notwithstanding, we get a lot of good emails about them.

Locally owned firm also run the gamut but are generally getting a lot better. This next list includes places that I would definitely have no problem recommending to my readers. Roppolo’s on E. 6th St. makes one of the most gigantic pies I’ve ever seen. The delivery guy almost got a hernia when he tried to deliver to my upstairs office. But it’s damn tasty. You can buy it by the slice from their storefront as well. Another relative newcomer is Rounder’s Pizzaria on W. 6th across from Sweetish Hill Bakery. I am addicted to their Garlic Knots. They are unbelievable. The pizza is good but so far not great. Sauce could use a little work. Often overlooked on Guadalupe is Milto’s. Their pies have a nice, thin-crust east coast vibe. Their gyros are a blast as well. And another local favorite for me is Yaghi’s New York Pizzaria with locations on William Cannon and Highway 71 near Bee Caves. My wife and I love their Mediterranean pizza as well as the Pepperoni. And while Ruggles Grill in Westlake may not specialize in pizza, they make a damned good one. Love their pepperoni and sausage piies. Ditto for the very nice pizzas at Bellagio near Jester Estates. I usually go the Oso Buco but their pizzas are very good. And what’s not to like about Frank and Angie’s? Don King first turned me on to this about five years ago and their pies have been getting better ever since. My daughter loves their White Pizza which features an alfredo sauce and the Pavarotti (lots of yummy garlic). And out in Lakeway, pizza fan will enjoy the brick oven specialties from Hill Country Pasta House on Highway 620. I like the Italian sausage and mushroom.

Moving up to the absolute highest tier of my pizza favs, (and a note: these can all be eaten cold from the frig the next day) we begin with newcomer Home Slice Pizza on S. Congress. Nice job so far. Their crust is crisp, the sauce sweet and engaging, and their pies are very tasty. They even offer a vintage east-coast style clam pizza they claim that’s as good as anything in New Haven. While it’s good, and even very good, it’s not quite up to New Haven. Grande Appiza in East Haven makes a clam pizza that is literally to die for. But kudos to Home Slice for attempting this difficult dish and almost pulling it off. Their calzones are equally good. Another consistently great pizza pie can be had at Reale’s on Research. That first bite confirms it: great mélange of flavors. This family restaurant offers up one of the best pepperoni pizzas in Austin. And of course the venerable Brick Oven, the dean of quality pizzas in Austin must be given their due. I absolutely adore their sausage and onion and veggie pizzas. The crust is terrific and can be eaten down to the last bite. And no discussion of great pizza could be complete without mentioning Saccone’s with two locations on Research and a new opening in Round Rock. Their sausage and mushroom with the sweet Sicilian sauce just about knocks me out. It’s as close to New York pizza as you’re going to get and it rocks. Dan Saccone is from New Jersey and he gets it. But even a thin notch above Saccone’s is the astonishing pie at Tuscany on Riata Trace off Research. Their amazing Italian oven which utilizes convection. Infrared, and flame can cook a pizza in under two minutes. The Margarita, the Greek, and the Pepperoni and nothing short of amazing. Every time I bite into a pie from Tuscany I am amazed at how good they are.

So there you have it. Austin has come a long way on the pizza scene in the last ten years. And I am grateful. Still nothing that would fit on Wooster St. in New Haven yet, but there are some that are coming pretty close. And that’s exciting for a transplant from New Haven. Doubtless, we’ve left off a place or two.