Restaurants I’d like to Have Back for Christmas

I was thinking about some of my favorite former Austin restaurants the other day, and how much I’d like to see them back in operation as a foodie Christmas present. C’mon Santa, make some magic happen and bring these back! In no particular order…

Cafe Mangu

This little Pflugerville joint fused Puerto Rican, Dominican and Cuban cuisine in a particularly appealing way. Best mojo ever and the Lechon Asado was to die for. Ditto for the Yuccca fritters.

Louie’s 106

Joe Elminger and Norville Brand had a home run with this stylish 6th Street emporium.
The Escargot was the best appetizer in Austin, and they had Cajun style seafood stew that was amazing!

Demi Epicurious

This was one of the most creative and thoughtfully crafted restaurants in the city. A favorite with our Gonzo Gourmet Club. Chef Robert Barker was uber-talented. Their Muscovy Duck Breast stands in my memory along with their terrific Mushroom Soup with a dash of truffle oil. The site on 6th is now home to Maiko.

Aquarelle

This was chef Robert Brady’s masterpiece of French country cooking on West just north of 6th. We celebrated more than a few anniversaries and birthdays here, and were drawn like moths to the flame to his classically understated but eminently memorable dishes. The Dover Sole Meuniere was nothing short of magical. The Steak Frittes was also a delight.

McCormick and Schmick’s on Congress

This is the only chain restaurant on this list, but it deserves to be there. It was all about fresh Seafood and aged Steaks, and GM Rich Everett ran this like it was his own. A classy yet cozy place, I can never recall having an even somewhat off experience. We called one birthday and ordered 5 lb. Maine Lobsters. They arrived on time, perfectly cooked and beautifully presented. I do miss this one.

The Shoreline Grill

In its prime this was the place to go and watch the evening bat show along with sampling Dan Haverty’s masterful cuisine. A favorite of the lobbyist crowd, this place exuded comfort and class. I still think of the Shrimp Harissa and the Diver Scallops. Great bar, as well.

The European Bistro

This was the closest that Austin came to sophisticated Eastern European and German cuisine. Owned by the indomitable Anna with Piroska in the kitchen, they made a Chicken Paprikash for the ages as well as a killer Weinerschnitzel. It was eventually, in my opinion, done in by its Pflugerville location. But man this was a great place to eat.

Silver and Stone

This Georgetown classic run by James Ramsey ran the gamut from fresh game dishes to incredibly delightful aged cuts of prime beef and lamb. A difficult location in the 4th story of an office building across from the square downtown. But I never had a meal there that was less than memorable. Ramsey later went on to helm Fore in Lakeway.

Apatite Cafe

David Sanchez named this restaurant in the Shops at the Galleria after the emerald Apatite gemstone. The restaurant was a success from day one during its short run (Sanchez left after a year to helm the new Soleil adjacent to the Oasis) but what a run it was! The best risotto dishes, flat out, that I had tasted anywhere in the city. And his Sweetbreads were divine. Sanchez is now back in Aspen and we miss him!

Bistro 88

This restaurant had an almost 20-year run at the site of the original Chinatown on Bee Caves Road. Jeff Liu was a master of fusing European and Asian influences, and his Sesame Shrimp is indelibly etched in my food memory banks. He is now running a Texas style BBQ joint in China (of all places) but for all those years, Bistro 88 was a MUST visit.

Mama Roux

This wonderful restaurant at Parmer and North IH-35 owned by Michael and Yoli Amr, founders of Gumbo’s, ended in tragedy with their alleged suicide/murder. Michael was dour and Yoli was the opposite: a former nurse who just exuded energy and personality. Together they made a great front and back of the house. I still have trouble believing the police report, and there is not a week that passes that they are not in my thoughts. In their honor, two former employees have reopened the restaurant as the French Quarter.

Sampaio’s

Magna Sampaio had one of the most delightful Brazilian restaurants this side of Rio on North Lamar near 45th St.. I totally enjoyed Magna and her place. The Churrasco Platter was a favorite as were literally any of the seafood dishes. And one always had to partake of some Caipirinha, the national cocktail of Brazil. Trust me, I did!
I heard that Magna is in Brazil contemplating a return to Austin and yet another restaurant. Good for her!

I could go on but I do miss these any many more. Too bad Santa doesn’t have that kind of juice to bring back at least one!