Rob’s Favorites from the Wine Spectator Grand Tour 2008
When Wine Spectator Editor and Publisher Marvin Shanken conceived the idea of the “Grand Tour” back in 2001, the idea was to bring a number of well-known wines, classics that are hard to find, and new releases all together in one room on one night. Wine aficionados immediately adopted the idea. And as a result, the first weekend in May is permanently etched on my calendar with a trip to Las Vegas at the Venetian Hotel’s Grand Ballroom.
This year may have been the best of all. The wines poured were all top-scoring wines. Tragically, I had hyper extended my knee days before the trip but I was not to be deterred. I got one of those scooters one sees in retirement villages and, with the able assistance of fellow Gonzo Art San Miguel, negotiated my way through the teeming masses of wine lovers pretty much without incident.
Where to start? Well why not with the always superlative Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon Special Selection 2005. The line was long but people deferred to the gimp on the scooter and we got right through. Wow! This big cab is a treat. Not at all astringent with an exceptional finish and redolent of blackberries and earth. We loved it. This is the highest priced Caymus but one you simply have to try.
Art San Miguel gets a taste of the Caymus Special Selection ’05 |
Next stop was director and vineyard owner Francis Coppola’s extraordinary Rubicon Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford ’05. The name Rubicon refers to the forbidden Rubicon River in Northern Italy which Julius Caesar crossed with his army, setting into motion events which would resonate down through the ages. When he launched his winery, Coppola, a fan of history, was heard to paraphrase the remark that the Roman general had made famous: “The die is cast!”
And wine fans should be happy that Coppola crossed his own Rubicon. The wine is exceptional. Wine critic Mary Ewing Mulligan called it “rich and soft and seductive yet very powerful.” I couldn’t agree more. It has a high degree of tannins but lacks the astringency one sees in young wines. The wine retails at around $85 and worth every penny.
We are so glad that Francis Coppola didn’t stop at Godfather II and started making wines as well |
One of the pleasant value wines we discovered with DaVinci Chianti Riserva 2004. This is a steal at $24.00. It was very mellow for a relatively young Chianti with great mid-palate taste sensations. I was wishing, as I sat in my scooter, that someone would bring me a bowl of pasta to enjoy this with really neat wine.
If you’re ever in Vinci, Italy (near Florence) stop by and meet winemaker Alberto Antonini. I love his DaVinvi and so does my wallet |
No visit to the Grand Tour is complete without stopping by perennial favorite Chateau Palmer. The 2004 Chateau Palmer Margaux is being compared to the stunning 1966. It was awarded 94 points by Wine Spectator.
I tasted rich fruits with no overstatement whatsoever. Eminently drinkable now, just wait five years. Around $125 per bottle.
They take everything very seriously at Chateau Palmer, including the pouring. This was the closest we saw him come to a smile all evening |
My vote for best Chardonnay of the show went to Grgich Hill’s Napa Valley Carneros 2005. This is a crisp, wine that holds up beautifully over time. They do not allow malolatic fermentation which preserves that aforementioned crispness and adds balance. Winemaker Mike Grgich is a legend in Napa Valley for shocking the wine world by winning a competition in Paris is 1973 (taking down more than one serious Burgundy in the process). Retail cost is about $40.
Grgich Hills Chardonnays have graced the tables of many a White House dinner. It’s a staple at Balon dinners as well |
I was also very impressed with Patz & Hall, another Napa Valley Winery and their Zio Tony Ranch 2005 Chadonnay. This is smooth and silky, a little dryer than the Grgich Hills, but absolutely delicious. It reminded me, strangely, of a White Bordeaux. But I really enjoyed it. Retail cost is about $60.
Patz & Hall has been around since 1988. The makers are dedicated to the notion of single-vineyard Chardonnays |
The Ernie Els Stellenbosch 2004 was our next visit. I’ve come to really appreciate this cab blend from S. Africa. First because as a huge golf fan, I thought it was cool the Ernie had started a winery. But then I met his partner, Jean Engelbrecht, had the first of many tastings, and my interest in this wine increased exponentially. Engelbrecht comes from generations of South African vintners and was a boyhood friend of Els. Together with winemaker Louis Strydom, they have crafted a marvelous wine. (Rated 91 in Wine Spectator.) This wine has superb length with a pleasant surprise at the end in the form of fruit and spices. $93.00
Jean Engelbrecht and Rob posed with a bottle of the ’04. Minutes after this was taken, they arm wrestled! |
The wine of the evening for me was the Les Forts de Latour Pauillac 2005. This is a remarkable Bordeaux that will last for easily 20 years. The tannins are velvety and the finish amazing. I got hints of blue and black fruit. Because I was the poor gimp in the scooter, they took pity on me and let me sample more than my allotment. That was very pleasing. There were only 10,000 cases produced so availability may be an issue. Cost is high at $200. But what amazing flavor. If you have an opportunity to taste this wine, do it. You will be delighted!
The pourer is noticeably proud of the les Forts de Latour. She should be |
Other interesting finds, people, and wine notes from the Grand Tour.
The Chateau Canon St. Emilion 2000. This is a classic from the vineyard that lies on the celebrated limestone escarpment of the Pieds de Cotes. The wine has great balance. $115.00
The Catena Zapata Malbec Mendoza Alta 2004. This is a stunning example of what the Malbec grape can accomplish when grown in the high altitudes of Argentina. This is 100% Malbec and a beautiful wine with a lengthy finish that shows wonderful minerality with finely grained tannins and lively acidity. Price: $43. I had the chance to drink a lot of this wine at the Texas Hill Country Wine and Food Festival (The Hot Blooded Latins seminar). Goes beautifully with seared meats.
So I’m motoring along on my scooter and someone yells out “Hey Rob!” Now this is in Las Vegas. Well who should be there but June, a waitperson from Uchi and her friend who used to work at the Driskill. Small world, huh?
Green Point Yara Valley Reserve Chardonnay 2005. This winery was begun by Moet Chandon to produce sparkling wines and still wines. I love the Chardonnay. It’s got a bright, fruity taste with a hint of apricot. It’s a perfect wine to go with shellfish, particularly lobster. Price $30.00.
After three hours of sipping and noshing, people just get, well, happy. Marge and Carol were no exceptions to the Grand Tour rule |
The place was packed with wine lovers. But at least in first couple of hours, most were accommodating to the gimp in the scooter! We’ll definitely be heading back next year. Feel free to email me with any questions about the wines discussed.