Second Bar + Kitchen

Second Bar + Kitchen

My enthusiasm for Chef David Bull is well known by readers of Dining Out with Rob Balon.com. Since his dramatic makeover ten years ago of the formerly moribund Driskill Grill into one of Austin’s finest restaurants, Bull has established himself as a serious player on the national dining scene. So when he returned to Austin late last year to open 2nd St. Bar and Kitchen and its more upscale companion Congress, local foodies were buzzed! Me included.

2nd St. has more than delivered on its initial promise. Bull’s team of stellar chefs is rolling some serious cuisine out of this extremely comfortable and tastefully appointed spot. The appetizers are vintage Bull. The Beef Short Rib Croquettes are simply an indulgence: tender and exceptionally flavorful with a gruyere fondue. You must also try the Buffalo Fried Pickles. Finally, somebody in Texas has figured out the fried pickle. The key is density, gorganzola cheese and Bull’s piquant sauce. And the Black Truffle pomme frittes with grana podano and a truffle aioli simply light up the plate. These are essentially crisp and sinfully delicious: and the option to further indulge with an additional slice of seared foie gras is delightfully wretched excess.

The small plates section of the menu is no less appealing. Let’s begin with the Veal Meatballs arrabiata. The integrity of the meatballs is amazing as is the texture. Yet the dish is light and endlessly entertaining. Bull’s version of Bacon and Eggs made with a slightly crunchy pork belly, a poached egg and frisee along with toast takes a simple concept and imbues it with elegance and sophistication, but not to the point of artistic excess. And the Chive Potato Gnocchi with roma tomatoes presents like it came out of a Currier and Ives poster. Best gnocchi I’ve had since Will Packwood closed “7” years ago. And no visit to 2nd would be complete without one of Bull’s soups. The Pepperoni Soup is a blast: a gift from Bull’s grandmother that puts the plump San Marzano tomatoes center stage into a stewy bowl of excellence.

The large plates section of the menu presents even more goodies. I have a difficult time not ordering every single one of these. The Pappardelle pasta with truffled ricotta and roasted mushrooms is most tempting. It is al dente and every bite oozes goodness. And the Roasted Salmon with wild arugula and roasted eggplant is another dish that requires the deft touch that Bull possesses. It is texturally perfect as salmon has to be and the garlic mint pesto is totally over the top. Kudos as well to the Congress Burger [you knew this had to be coming] that somehow just seems appropriate on this menu. With a shallot confit and gruyere, it’s a burger that demands your attention, even on a menu crowded with the aforementioned delights. And did I mention that the horseradish pickles blew me away?

So I join the ranks of those who joyously welcome the return of David Bull and his reunion with Jeff Trigger. These guys do serious work and what better place for a great new concept than in the Austonian, a great new building.