The Back Story at Soto: Chef Andy and His Family Rock at Lakeline Mall
One of the more dynamic openings in North Austin has to be the recent introduction of Chef Andy Okamoto’s Soto restaurant to Lakeline Mall.Andy’s passions for cooking date back to his 10th birthday where he worked at his uncle’s restaurant in Kyoto, Japan. He moved to Boston several years later and worked at the another family owned spot called Jae’s Cafe. Astonishingly, by age 16 1/2 he was the sushi chef at the restaurant. This may seem unusual, but among the most passionate and talented chefs I’ve met, it is actually quite common.
Then a friend called and he went to Fukaku for more experience and seasoning. By the ripe old age of 23, Andy got an opportunity to go to work for the legendary Mashuru Morimoto at his namesake restaurant in Philadelphia. What was it like working for the Iron Chef?
“Many thing different,” says Andy. “Change from what I was cooking. Hard at first, but very exciting.” Yeah, no kidding. “They just would make a tartar out of o-toro just hours before the restaurant opened.” Andy worked at Morimoto for a little over a year. Then he went back to Japan with his uncle, and the two toured some of the world’s best Japanese restaurants. His favorite: Sushi Yasuda in New York City.
Andy brought those inspirations to a dish he created at Soto where spiced o-toro sashimi is served atop a large block of ice. This was one of the first things I tried on my first visit, and it blew me away. Andy picked Austin for his first restaurant because his brother lived here and was so enthusiastic about the city. Andy fell in love with Austin and by age 28, he was ready to open Soto at Lakeline Mall. He seems old beyond his years and yet still has the outgoing personality of someone much younger. He works a crowd at the sushi bar like no one I’ve ever seen before. And I expect huge things from this young man and Soto.
General Manager Brian O’Neill, a veteran restaurant GM, marvels at the level of commitment Andy and his parents (they work in the kitchen as well) have to both their customers and their new restaurant. “I’m amazed by them virtually every day,” says O’Neill.
I suspect that amazement is already spreading sushi fans across Austin.