The Chef at Trattoria Lisina is in Fine Form

Chef John Lichtenberger doesn’t sound like he should be at the helm of an Italian restaurant like Damian Mandola’s Trattoria Lisina in Driftwood. But the New York native loves Italian food and he loves to cook it. And he’s one of the key reasons why Trattoria Lisina has gotten off to such a strong start.

Consider the fact that a pain-in-the-ass food critic shows up on a Friday night and needs to be indulged with a low-carb feast. Well, not only did they manage, as they would for any guest, to indulge me, but may I categorically state that John’s food along with his touch was excellent. The Antipasto Misto was classic, the Minestrone had a deep, rich flavor, and the Osso Bucco was tender and savory, a perfect example of a braised veal shank in a lovely jus. On top of that, instead of the mashed potatoes, I was able to get a vegetable medley that was zesty yet comforting. It was delicious and a perfect complement to the Osso Bucco.

Also, noting my lament that I was really craving a Linguine with White Clam Sauce, he sent me a savory order of streamed clams that were spot on. No carbs to speak of: amazing flavors.

I can’t wait til I get to try John’s pasta dishes. See his menu at trattorialisina.com.