The Most Influential Restaurants in Austin

We are blessed with many fine restaurants in Austin. But among that group there are a few that stand out as being the trend setters for other restaurants. You know: the places local chefs and aspiring restaurateurs really pay attention to.

Congress

Since the first day he arrived in Austin over a dozen years ago at the Driskill Grill, David Bull has commanded the attention of his peers. Now he sits atop a lofty perch of influence with his stunning Congress restaurant, and the equally creative 2nd. Congress is the kind of restaurant that is delightfully upscale yet completely approachable. This is a combination envied by many yet actually realized by very few.

Each night Bull creates 3-course and 7-course prix fixe tasting menus. The combinations are often deceptively simple, yet invariably stunning. Were I starting an upscale restaurant, I would pay serious attention to the pairings this young man brings to the table. And I know a lot of his peers most certainly do.

Uchi

After completing his apprenticeship with the legendary Smokey Fuse at Musashino, Tyson Cole opened an Asian restaurant that took our city by surprise. I immediately took notice when I tasted the maguro sashimi and goat cheese. So did the producers of the Iron Chef as they invited Cole up to NYC for a battle. He lost, but should have won. Nonetheless, Uchi considerably ramped up the Sushi/Japanese scene in the River City. And every dinner there is a winning, albeit expensive experience.

Uchiko / Qui

Uchi then gave rise to Uchiko and as Fuse had mentored Cole, so then Cole took an interest in young Paul Qui. These two restaurants have had such an impact that local food fans had to reexamine their flavor profiles along with their expectations. Now that Qui has opened his namesake restaurant on East 6th, the chain of creativity and influence continues. Every day there’s a surprise, and it’s usually delightful. Think area chefs don’t take notice?

Trio

Elmar Prambs is approaching 30 years at the helm of first the Cafe at the Four Seasons, and then Trio at the same location. He has mentored great young talent like Todd Duplechan (founder of Lenoir) and still relentlessly searches for excellence on a nightly basis.

Prambs almost singlehandedly destroyed the once-held notion that hotel restaurants should be avoided. His quarterly menu selections are eagerly awaited by the local food community: foodies and chefs alike. And despite his fame, Prambs still listens: to customers, other chefs, and even the occasional critic.

Barley Swine

When Bryce Gillmore coverted his Odd Duck trailer to the brick and mortar Barley Swine on South Lamar several years ago, he set off an avalanche of gastro pubs along with the revival of such old favorites as Brussel Sprouts and Cauiflower presented in ways that made these often bulky vegetables irresistible.

Barley Swine is a restaurant I constantly hear other chefs reference despite the fact that it barely accommodates 40 patrons. The dishes are immensely tasty and creative, and the locavore movement is most definitely served by the talented Gillmore.

Oh yes, and did I mention that Bryce’s dad is Jack Gilllmore of Z’Tejas and Jack Allen’s Kitchen fame? Talk about influence.

Sway

The delightful confluence of Thai and other Asian goodies that is Sway on South 1st has been packing in local foodies as well as chefs for over a year now. Rene Ortiz has departed but Alexis Chong continues the amazing start to this very cool restaurant.

Be it the Shu Mai (obviously more of a Chinese influence) or the Pad Kiweto (the pork bellies are riveting) the flavors at Sway speak volumes to all who want to listen, and apparently many do.

It may not be your father’s Thai restaurant, but who cares? Flavor and risk taking dishes are keys here, and the word is travelling.

Franklin BBQ

When Aaron Franklin set up shop in a trailer off IH-35 just a few short years ago, I doubt that in his wildest dreams he could have imagined what would transpire. Franklin’s gained a national reputation, earned the admiration of Tony Bourdain, finished in the top 25 restaurants in the country in a poll (that’s all restaurants, not just BBQ). And that is absolutely mind-blowing.

Now Franklin (who makes the best pork ribs I have ever tasted) is at the epicenter of the white hot Texas BBQ wars. He has brought Austin BBQ into the national parlance, and been in TV commercials where world famous chefs come to his restaurant. Talk about influence.

He’s a nice guy on top of that, and I hear that would-be grill masters make pilgrimages to his brick and mortar spot on East 11th.

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