The Pita Man and His Empire

Odds are, if you’ve eaten a slice of Pita bread at any local deli or restaurant around Austin, chances are Malek Abijaoude, the proprietor of Phoenicia Bakery and Deli, has gotten up at 2am and fired up his South Lamar ovens and baked the bread that’s covering your Gyro or Shawarma, or what’s served at Tapas places like Malaga, or bakeries like the new Daisy’s over at Loop 110 and Hancock.

Those who know Malek will appreciate his dry sense of humor. I’ve often referred to him as the Lebanese Steven Wright, and for good reason. And his equally fluent skill in the bakery yields not only excellent Pita bread, but wonderful French and Italian bread, baguettes, and a variety of middle Eastern cookies.

I am addicted to the Halwa, a confection that begins with sesame paste and sugar. And the Maamoul is a butter cookie infused with dates and possessed of a very mellow flavor. I could go rogue over these cookies if left to my own devices. He also makes a funnel cake dipped in syrup. It’s called Zulbia Biahmeh and it’s a staple for the Lebanese version of Halloween known as Barbara.

Malek’s sister Margarita works the front of the store and son Malek Jr. runs the second store on Burnet (which actually has a small dining room behind the pastry counter). Hence, it stays in the family.

So let’s appreciate the Pita man. He is the genuine article. And also one hell of a nice guy.