When a Chain Really Doesn’t Act Like a Chain

Darryl Wittle & Chef Boyer Derise

But occasionally a place like Fleming’s at the Domain steps up with a managing partner like Darryl Wittle and exec chef Boyer Derise. And that’s when a chain becomes more like an owner-operated restaurant.

Wittle is a pro and he works for a company that knows how to take advantage of his expertise. He just returned from Brazil where the company extended him a one-month sabbatical. (Think the GM’s at Chilli’s or Olive Garden get those?)

So you think it’s a coincidence that Paul Duce, one of the best waiters ever to grace a table in Austin, was trained and mentored by Wittle? Or that Fleming’s at the Domain derives its energy and admirable ambiance from Wittle’s infectious enthusiasm. Or that he didn’t come back from Brazil bubbling over with ideas on some new seafood dishes for Fleming’s.

I actually look forward to the occasional dinner at Fleming’s for the opportunity not only to sample Chef Derise’s favorites but to watch how a consummate manager like Wittle works the room. His presence is unmistakable, not like the flamboyant Marc Katz used to dominate the space at Katz’s, but rather in a flowing, almost seamless style where he just blends in yet seems to be where he’s always needed. And then there’s that wry smile. This is a man who appreciates irony yet does all he can to avoid it at his place of business.

This is a guy who was planning the employee Christmas party for the next April because the holiday season was just too insanely busy to allow for it. But when they finally got it, I heard it was one hell of a party. And this is one hell of a nice guy! It’s too bad he doesn’t own Fleming’s, because he runs it like he does. And that’s why it doesn’t feel like a chain.